Corkman on Tour

Monte Cristalo 4

2012-01-26T19:17:00.001Z

Monte Cristalo 4, a photo by CorkBilly on Flickr.

Pictured in the Dolomites 2004. Click on pic to see more from same trip.

MISSING PHOTOS

2011-12-05T07:34:00.001Z

PHOTOS ACCIDENTALLY ERASED FROM PREVIOUS POSTS. RESTORATION WILL BEGIN SOON BUT WILL BE SLOW

FREE BARRY'S TEA COMPETITION

2011-11-30T17:19:00.001Z

BARRY’S TEA FOR YOU – THIS CHRISTMAS

There was a lot of interest in our recent post on the special Santa pack from Barry’s Tea. Briefly, Barry’s Tea created the limited edition Santa’s Tea box which is for sale exclusively on barrysteashop.ie for tea fans at home and abroad. The box is only €3.25 which is a winner for stocking fillers and sending to family and friends across the world via The Online Tea Shop

Now the good news is that they are giving us ten packs for a free contest, a contest that you may enter from home and abroad. But you need to get cracking. Tuesday next (Dec 6th) is the final date for posting abroad. So move on over to our Facebook and just press like or comment and all entries will go into the hat next Monday at noon Irish time and the ten winners will be chosen.

FORT CAMDEN

2011-08-30T08:29:00.001+01:00

Crosshaven's Fort Camden is a terrific visit:

Classical Coastal Artillery Fort

Brennan Torpedo Site

Magnificent Harbour Views

19th century construction

Underground tunnels

Artillery batteries

Cafe on the Parade ground

Lots of photos and full details of my recent visit here

THE ROCK OF CASHEL

2011-08-04T09:23:00.002+01:00

THE ROCK OF CASHEL

Some things never change.

This was underlined last week by our feisty guide for a tour of the Rock of Cashel. She told us about Miler McGrath, a bishop and a politician and a notorious character. The Vatican appointed him Bishop of Down and Connor but, in 1567, he was appointed the Protestant Archbishop of Cashel. Apparently, he held the dual appointment for nine years! He also served as an MP.

And then there was the choir, the Vicars Choral. Not your innocent boys but fully grown men, some of whom had wives and families in the town. The position was much sought after due to the financial rewards. One of the perks was a seal with which the choir member stamped the bill for the shop-keeper who was later reimbursed by the Archbishop. But greed set in and duplicate seals were made and overused by family members and eventually the seals were withdrawn.

Cashel was a centre of power long before the current buildings appeared on the horizon. Brian Boru, king of Munster and later of Ireland, was strongly associated with Cashel in the 10th and 11th centuries and then Cormac McCarthy, the King of Desmond, erected Cormac's chapel in the 12th century.

Cormac’s Chapel is a gem and one of the highlights of a visit to the Rock. The 12th century Romanesque chapel is being renovated and not always open to the public but we were lucky last week and enjoyed our tour.

The 12th century round tower is the oldest surviving building of the cluster. It was once free standing but is now secured to the 13th century cathedral which is not much more than a shell but quite an impressive one.

Treasures include the original 12th century St Patrick’s Cross which has been brought indoors to the museum the better to preserve it. And then there are the astonishing wall paintings which are being painstakingly restored.

It is a fantastic visit, very impressive. I’d advise you to go under the wing of your guide at first and then, well informed, you’ll be free to wander around and explore on your own after that. Parking is quite close and costs 4 euro. There are fairly basic, fairly clean toilets at the car park but they would seem inadequate for an attraction that draws so many people.

Bantry House and Gardens

2011-07-20T09:11:00.003+01:00

Read all about my recent enjoyable trip to Bantry House and Gardens.

THE EWE EXPERIENCE

2011-07-18T09:03:00.002+01:00

EXPERIENCETHE EWE

There have always been quite a few good reasons to visit Glengarriff inWest Cork. One, that some of you may not know, is The Ewe

Basically, the Ewe experience is a sculpture garden set mainly around asmall lively river running down through a forest a few miles west of Glengarriffon the Kenmare Road. It is well signposted and easy to find.

You get a clue of what you’ll encounter even in those signs andcertainly at the entrance where you’ll see the first of the sculptures. Many ofthem, including the hand pointing to the way in, will raise a smile, some evena laugh.

But there is something serious going on here too. If you read all theinformation panels on the walk, you will be well educated on mother earth and natureand on man’s part in it. But always that touch of humour. Dare to open a doorin a rock to see the world’s most destructive creature and......

Sustainable living is also a theme here. And it is seen in thesculptures, many of them made out of used materials. Take the choir of MilkMaidens for example. They are all created from plastic milk cartons, theirprominent red lips from the caps!

There are huge dinosaurs and a massive spider, fish jumping (onecycling even), grim faced bugs all over the place. If you get taken short andneed to use the loo, don't worry. There is a pink one provided, with a phone inthe tree alongside. All the comforts of home!

You have to be wide awake walking around here and not just because thepaths are rough enough. Keep those peepers open and you’ll see a big spottedcat prowling through the trees. And a man’s head, a big one, lying there.

Humour abounds but questions are asked in a subtle kind of way. Sculptureand nature to nurture the soul. Good for the kid in you and hopefully the kidsof today will dial in to the wisdom so that the kids of the future will enjoythis fragile place we call earth.

But don’t let me finish on a serious note. If you take a kid to Ewe,there are games scattered all around for them. And you! Play Solitaire on a stone “board”,also Noughts and Crosses and more. Visit. Enjoy.

YouTube link

PROVENCE: The Black and White Collection

2011-07-04T16:33:00.002+01:00

PROVENCE: The Black and White Collection
About 20 of the best!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/corkbilly/sets/72157628348294109/

ENJOYABLE STOPOVER IN SAINTES. END OF THE ROAD!

2011-06-25T13:29:00.000+01:00

23.06.11 ENJOYABLE STOPOVER IN SAINTES. END OF THE ROAD!

Many Irish people, driving down to the south west of France and the neighbouring area of Spain, will know the Charente town of Saintes as a name on an autoroute signpost, north of Bordeaux. Which is a pity really as it is very nice small town with highlights such as the massive Abbaye aux Dames and its Roman remains: Arc Germanicus and the Arena.

I found another couple of good reasons to like the place last Thursday, namely the 2 star Hotel Au Terminus and the nearby restaurant called La Taverne de Maitre Kanter. Had driven without a bother from Arles to Saints and while booking into the hotel, near the Railway station, I met the lovely couple of Catherine and Jean Jacques who own and run this small old-fashioned establishment.

Jean Jacques was very helpful in helping us unload and in parking the car in a private garage behind the hotel. At this stage, we also became acquainted with their dog called Speed. Later on we met Catherine who has excellent English and is also very helpful. We saw her in action directing a couple and their children how best to spend their few hours in the town.

We were familiar enough with Saintes but did ask about the restaurants – the hotel doesn’t have one, though the beautiful 1920s room where we had breakfast the following morning used to be one and is also used for the once monthly (last Friday) Jazz Night. Catherine recommended a few eateries including one about 200 metres away who do excellent French food and give a free drink to customers of Au Terminus.

We had a bit of time to spare before eating so adjourned to the small hotel bar which prides itself on local aperitifs. Catherine was delighted when I ordered a couple of Pineaus and, while pouring, told us it came from a top local producer who has been doing it for generations. It was gorgeous for sure.

At the restaurant, our free drink turned out to be a glass of quality rose each and we followed that up with 50cl of Bordeaux red (Bellevue) for €9.00. The three course fixed price meal was €22.00. My starter was a trio of tomatoes (yellow tomatoes, red and a cold soup) with mozzarella. The mains was a millefeuillie of very tender beef served with shallots and chips and dessert was crepes with mandarin sauce. Very satisfactory indeed.

The following day, Friday the 24^th, was also quiet on the roads towards Nantes. We had quite a bit of time on our hands and decided we’d check out the Nantes-Brest alternative to Nantes-Rennes as a way of getting to Roscof. But, up by Lorient, we cut across the countryside on a single carriageway road. It wasn’t bad at all and had a few dual carriageway pieces for overtaking. Generally though it was quiet ad we arrived in Roscof in good time.

Ferry left on time and after a rough enough journey, perhaps our worst in over 30 years, we were happy to arrive back in Cork at the scheduled time of 10.00am on Saturday even though temperatures were about half what we could have been enjoying in Provence. No complaints though after 28 days and over 5,000 kilometres!

FAREWELL LUNCH AT L’AMANDIN’S. MONSTER FAILS TO SHOW

2011-06-22T17:31:00.000+01:00

22.06.11 FAREWELL LUNCH AT L’AMANDIN’S. TERASCON MONSTER FAILS TO SHOW

Lavender in your dessert? Sounds strange to Irish ears but it is gorgeous. At least it was today at Auberge de l’Amandin in Beaucaire.

It was our last big meal in Provence so we skipped the Menu du Jour and went for a set menu priced at €23. Starter was a local speciality, a Franco-Italian dish: a Pissaladiere, with aubergine caviar and grilled Tuna Fish. Mains was an excellent pan-fried Duckling fillet with an orange caramel sauce.

Then came dessert, a blackboard full of choices. I went for apricot with a honey and lavender sauce and served with vanilla ice-cream. Brilliant. Was tempted to ask for a second.

Earlier, we had visited the Chateau de Provence at Tarascon, a very impressive building, began by Good King Rene in the 15^th century. It is largely intact, though unfurnished. We were able to see the private quarters of the King, his own dressing rooms, chambers (including toilet arrangements), also his confessor’s room adjacent to the church.

It is quite a tall building and, from the huge roof, we had fine views to the chateau of Beaucaire, just across the Rhone, over the town of Tarascon and of traffic on the Rhone. There is also a courtyard and garden on the lower level.

But there was no sign of the Tarasque, the legendary terror of the area. He was man eating monster, half-lion, half armadillo and it was St Martha who came to the rescue, the event still celebrated each June. Posters up around the place suggest this year’s is a Tribute to Buffalo Bill!

Nod to Van Gogh. Candid camera: Heron goes to lunch. Ragondin close-up

2011-06-21T17:30:00.000+01:00

21.06.11 Nod to Van Gogh. Candid camera: Heron goes to lunch; close up with a Ragondin.

Sky changed from blue to grey as we headed towards the Parc Ornithologique at Pont de Gau, 4 km shy of the Camargue coast. Wasn’t expecting too much for my seven euro but it turned out to be of the best visits of the holiday as 2.5 kms of paths afforded close-ups of many birds and animals including the previously elusive flamingos, herons and also a close up of the non-native Ragondin, who we first met a few days ago in Roquemaure.

There is a series of enclosed eagles at the beginning but soon we are in open country, ducks, swans, and egrets among the first local birds seen as the temperatures remained high despite the cloud here. Then we arrived at the lakes and here there are hundreds of flamingos, some very close to the shore, obviously more used to people (but far from tame) than elsewhere in the area.

There are hides and viewpoints along the way but none where we came across the Ragondin. He was eating at the edge of a lake and wasn’t inclined to move so I got in close for a shot of an animal I hadn’t seen up to a couple of days ago. Apparently they are native to South America and imported to Europe at the end of the last century.

Herons are seen throughout the walk, usually standing in the shade of tall plants at the edge of the water. But I spotted one stalking his prey in the middle, not that I knew that until his head sped underwater and he emerged with a fish in his beak. Lighting strike!

Loads of other birds including egrets (and seagulls of course) as we headed back to the exit. Very enjoyable visit, aside from one or two bites from the local insects!

Took the opportunity to make a final nod to Van Gogh in sunny Arles. Thanks to Susie, our GPS “lady”, we found the Langlois Bridge, painted at least ten times by Van Gogh. However, like much of Van Gogh here, we were not looking at the original. It was destroyed in 1926 and was reconstructed slightly nearer to the centre of Arles. Still, the city is looking after it as council workmen were working on it when we arrived.

Original or not, it was nice to visit today and remember the man. Nice too to have been in Arles this past few weeks and seen the places associated with him. Lovely town.

Staying in for dinner to-night. That hadn’t been the plan but spotted some really inviting stuffed squid at the traiteur and that is now the centrepiece of the menu!

Name dropping: Russell Crowe, Pierre Cardin, Albert Camus, Marquis de Sade, Peter Mayle

2011-06-20T17:35:00.002+01:00

20.06.11 Name dropping: Russell Crowe, Pierre Cardin, Albert Camus, Marquis de Sade, Peter Mayle, Ridley Scott, Lacoste, Jesus Rafael Soto.

De Sade bust and ruins of his chateau. More photos here

Lourmarin and Lacoste, two villages in the Luberon area of Provence, link the names on my title list. Visited both today, and Bonnieux in between, but none of the “stars”, past or present, was there to greet me personally.

An hour’s drive took me from the Alpilles to the Luberon where the first stop was Lourmarin, the village made famous by the books (also follow ups via TV and film) of Peter Mayle. But there were some serious writers here long before the popular Englishman and they included 1957 Nobel Prize winner Albert Camus.

Camus was killed a car accident soon after the award and is buried here. Football followers may have seen this quote of his: "After many years during which I saw many things, what I know most surely about morality and the duty of man I owe to sport and learned it in the RUA." Camus had played in goal for the Racing Universitaire Algerios (RUA) junior team.

We took a stroll through the village, which still has quite a few estate agents, and also visited the château.

Another of Mayle’s books was made into the film was A Good Year (2006), directed by Scott and starring Crowe. An enjoyable enough tale, set in a local vineyard and surrounds. And indeed, some of the scenes, including the cafe ones, were filmed in Lacoste

Must admit, I didn’t search out the cafe, indeed hardly saw one at all, as I made my way up the rough cobbles and then an even rougher path to the Chateau de Sade, now owned and being restored by Cardin!

De Sade is best known for his erotic works, depicting bizarre violent fantasies. He lived in the 18th century castle overlooking the village. The castle was partially destroyed in an uprising in 1779 and was later looted and plundered by locals. Cardin has partially restored it and holds cultural events there.

There is a big show coming up next month but I enjoyed a foretaste with a ramble through the thin blue tubes of the “penetrable” structure by major Venezuelan kinetic artist Jesus Rafael Soto. Quite a bonus, I must admit.

And another bonus were the fine views from the top, 360 degrees, including a clear view of Mont Ventoux (teasing me again). Tough walk down to the parking space at the start of the town but enjoyed a lovely drive back through the hills, the vineyards and the olive fields. Looking forward to dinner in Fontvieille this evening. Gotto go get ready.

STEPPING BACK IN TIME: SPRING OF A CELTIC GOD.

2011-06-19T18:01:00.001+01:00

19.06.11 STEPPING BACK IN TIME: SPRING OF A CELTIC GOD. Gauls, Greeks and Romans.

Glanum. More photos here

Walked through this main street a few hours ago. Past the Market Pace. The Town Hall. The Church. Finally came to the sacred spring, named after a Celtic god, Glanis. Quite a few people about but there was no trading on the market, no business being transacted in the hall. This is the Gallo-Greco-Roman town of Glanum, over 2000 years old. In particular, it is the Glanum archaeological site, a city rediscovered after 17 centuries.

But back in the year dot, they had running water and also a system to take it away, running the full-length of that main street; they had hot baths, cold or lukewarm, depending on your preference. The Gauls, this Provence branch known as the Salluvii were here about 600 years before Christ. Later, the Greeks, who founded nearby Marseilles, were trading with them, and soon settling in and improving the place (about 200-50BC).

But Glanum really took off in the first century BC when the mighty Romans conquered the Galls. They built some very impressive buildings here, including temples by the sacred spring, a spring that still exists today, even has some fish in it.

Also here is the 2^nd century BC Dromas Well. It has a new see through cover and the water, ten metres below the Hellenistic (Greek) ground level, may still be seen.

It is an eye-opening visit. This and the trip to Point du Gard the other day, makes one think if civilisation has advanced or not. And what we were doing in Ireland where many rural areas only got running water in the second half of the last century.

Also a lesson that you can be up there with the best of them and then drop down rapidly. Greece is hanging on today, Italy still have Berlusconi while other great civilisations (the Mayans, for instance) have vanished!

They don’t advertise it much but there is a fantastic viewpoint over the site, overlooked by the Alpilles (the little Alps) and especially by Mont Gaussier. From this viewpoint, you not only see the site itself but will also see nearby St Remy (Glanum’s successor town), Avignon in the far distance and even the white top of Mont Ventoux and more. Very good visit indeed.

Didn’t expect to get culturally excited earlier in the day. Then the aims were simple, the main one being to secure this evening's dinner as most restaurants were booked out for Father’s Day. French traituers usually open for a few hours on Sunday morning and our guy in Fontvieille obliged. Back then for a brisk walk along the banks between the rice fields before a lovely dip in the pool.

BULLS IN A HOT ARENA

2011-06-18T19:47:00.001+01:00

More photos here

This afternoon in Saintes Maries de la Mer.. Neither man nor beast was physically hurt here..

18.06.11 FIGHTING BLACK BULLS IN A HOT ARENA

Eleven euro bought me a ticket for the 2 hour bull fighting display in the arena at Saintes Maries on a very hot Saturday afternoon. The contest here, bloodless (at least for the bull), is between a succession of bulls going solo against the same set of 14 young men, known as raseteurs. The raseteur uses a small tool to snatch a band or rosette which is tied to the base of each long horn.

One of two of the men attract the sometimes stamping bellowing bull while the runner makes his usually curved move hoping to surprise the bull but the bull gets up enormous speed over a matter of metres and usually the runner makes his jump out of the arena with inches to spare, sometimes with nothing at all! It is spectacular and skilful and the moves by the runners and even the bulls are quite athletic.

There is a roughly similar form of entertainment over on West Coast (in the Landes area). This is much more varied, more entertaining, with clowns involved and the more serious players jumping over the charging animal. But the big difference here is that cows are used instead of the bulls of the Camargue.

For more on bull fighting in France, which also includes (at the bigger arenas such as Arles) the Spanish style fight to the death, see here

Bull breaks into "safe" area

Chateauneuf du Pape, tasting Tavel and lunch where Hannibal marched

2011-06-17T19:20:00.001+01:00

17.06.11 Chateauneuf du Pape (the village, and the wine), tasting Tavel and lunch where Hannibal marched

Papal ruins overlook Chateuneuf and its grapes. More photos here

Maison Brotte was our first port of call in the small French town of Chateauneuf du Pape. Mainly because it was easy to find but also because it is recommended in the Michelin Green Guide to the Wine Regions of France.

The charming lady who met us at the door –I had euros in hand – explained that the visit to the very interesting wine museum is “gratuit” which means free (for nothing). Libre also means free but you might still have to pay for that unused parking space! Don’t worry. I got caught once or twice myself with those two.

The museum is quite informative and they have some old implements in-house and in the surrounds. After that, you get to taste their Domaine Barville products. Not just Chateauneuf but also wines such as Gigondas and other Cotes du Rhone. We enjoyed our samples of their white and red Chateauneuf. The red was 2009 but we picked on the 2007 when buying.

After that we visited the Chateau (or at least its ruins) that gave the village its name. The popes, then living just a few miles away in Avignon, decided they needed a summer residence and picked on the hilltop here. Now just one huge wall remains intact but from here you have a very impressive view. Of course the chateau dominated the town which is, appropriately, twinned with Castelgandolfo, the current summer residence of the popes.

Our first tasting of the day had been not too far away in the village of Tavel who make the “best Rose in France”. The town’s other claim to fame is that it supplied the stone for the Statue of Liberty.

Met a very pleasant lady here who first plied us with the Tavel 2010 which was excellent. Next came the 2010 Cuvee Royal which was even better and which formed the bulk of our purchase here. For a few Euros more...

In between the wine visits, we stopped at Roquemaure, also a wine town (scene of the St Valentine’s Day Festival of the Kiss and where Hannibal crossed the Rhone).Hardly a sound as we arrived at lunch-time but we did find a little restaurant, called L’Ecole Buissonniere (school of truants), very small and not in the main area. But we had a lovely lunch of Chicken fricassée, served with rice and a shallot and thyme sauce. Brilliant dish for just 9 euro; my glass of local rose came in at 2 euro.

Took a stroll to the river after that and, on some kind of small platform, saw a few ducks and an adult and baby otter. That is what I thought at first but soon began to have my doubts. Does anyone recognise the furry animals from the photo?

After Chateauneuf, we headed back to Fontvieille where we found a boules tournament being played out all over the car parks. Might well have been an international as Italian flags were flying in front of the town hall. Our mission was to the traiteur and he didn’t leave us down with enough of a prepared beef dish (in the style of the Camargue cowboys, the Gardians) for two for just over a tenner. Should go well with a bottle of that Chateauneuf or will I keep it all for Ireland. Decisions, decisions.

VAN GONE, MASSIVE GRAVEYARD and LOOK FOR A GOOD TRAITEUR

2011-06-16T19:13:00.001+01:00

16.06.11 VAN GONE, MASSIVE GRAVEYARD and LOOK FOR A GOOD TRAITEUR

Photos here

When in France, we eat out quite a bit. But we also eat in quite a bit and when we do we call to the Traiteur, usually a butcher, who prepares cooked dishes that just need micro-waving or a few minutes re-heating in the oven. I have gone miles out of my way here on previous occasions to call to a good traiteur and this time we have a good one on our doorstep in Fontvieille.

Called there a few minutes ago to pick up enough Veal in a Provencal Sauce for two and also a couple of scoops of mixed marinated olives, all for about ten fifty. I’m touting the traiteur cause here as I find quite a few Irish people don’t know about him! He makes it easy for the cook – an extra half hour in the pool!

And that extra half hour was badly needed today after a hard enough slog though Arles, searching for Van Gogh. Not easy! There are some obvious reminders. One of the cafes in the very popular Place du Forum has been renovated to look like the Cafe at Night Painting. Oh Yeah!

Thought I might have hit on something good when I eventually found L’Espace Van Gogh, a cultural centre that looks big on the town map. It is the old Hotel-Dieu, with a library and exhibition place. Aside from the fact that this was then the hospital that aided the artist after his ear incident, there is just one effort with re-connection and that is the courtyard garden which is said to look like it did back then.

The trouble with Arles and Van Gogh is that he is gone and they missed the boat. You’ll find none of his work here. But, if you are prepared to look, you’ll see how much of the work was inspired. Look at the wind, especially the Mistral, the clear skies, the crows and the cornfields and you’ll have more of an insight than available at the souvenir ships of the Espace.

And you may also look at Les Alyscamps, the subject of a few (three, I think) of his paintings. A visit here costs €3.50, slightly overpriced I thought. This was, for a long time, from Roman times to the late Medieval times, one of the largest graveyards in Western Europe. People were dying to get buried here for 1500 years! Forgive the morbid pun but check out the fascinating facts here.

On the way back to our parking, close to where the Rhone cruise boats dock – a huge Swiss one had just been replaced by a giant German – we came across the site of Van Gogh’s “Starry Night Over the Rhone” (top pic). He still tempts the people of this lovely town but you won’t find him hanging on any wall here. Look to the wind and those small black crows!

Roman Engineers and French Flair combine to make great visit

2011-06-15T16:23:00.004+01:00

15.06.11 Roman Engineers and French Flair combine to make great visit: 2000 year old Pont du Gard.

More photos here

Highlight today was a long awaited visit to Pont Du Gard. A brilliant site and not because of the 1st century engineering that supplied the then Roman city of Nimes with water but also because of the way the French have presented it.

Not just because of the usual car-parking facilities. There are two, one on the left bank, (800 places), one on the right (600). It doesn’t really matter which one you use as the viaduct is a short walk from either.

All the other facilities are there: shops, toilets, cafes and so on. But the really big thing here is the underground museum on the site. Here you will be amazed as you wander through the 2500 square metres “synthesing the Roman world through the history of the Nimes aqueduct around reproductions, full scale models, sound animation and multimedia kiosks”. For my money, and it is only 15 euro per car (up to five people, tough on singles), this is the best attraction visit in France.

The aqueduct was begun around 19BC, the aim being to carry water from near Uzes the 50 kilometres to Nimes. It had its faults – there was a snag list – but yet it brought good water to Nimes for about three hundred years. Even then, for another three hundred or so, it supplied agricultural demand along its route

Most of the aqueduct is now in ruins, much of the stone used to build Catholic abbeys and so on, but the remains at Pont du Gard, then the tallest aqueduct in the Roman Empire, still make an impressive viewing.

After the three hours, mostly in the 31 degree heat, we headed for “home” and a spell in the pool. Took it easy for a while then before making a reservation for dinner at Auberge de l’Amandin. Had a very enjoyable lunch there the other day.

Tonight’s dinner was superb. My starter: mixed salad with red prawns wrapped in kadaif (a very fine spaghetti like pastry).Very fine starter indeed. My mains was superb and so was hers. Mine was Creamy Risotto with Parmesan and Cray-fish while hers was Pan Fired Duck fillet, served with an orange caramel sauce also with vegetables. Very happy with both desserts. The excellent three course meal at the side of their pool, cost us €23.00 while a 50cl bottle of Costières de Nimes Rosé came in at €15.00. Will have to call again!

A Dip in the Med, then off on the Costieres de Nimes wine trail

2011-06-14T18:42:00.000+01:00

14.06.11 Dip in the Med, then off on the Costieres de Nimes wine trail

Another warm day (mostly around the 30 mark) in Provence begins with a reasonably brisk walk through the nearby rice fields. Rubbed on the anti-insect spray and kept the long pants on and it seems to have worked. Headed down to St Maries at the coastal edge of the Camargue for a swim in the still surprisingly cool waters of the Med.

Walked into the town then for a nibble or two, including the obligatory ice-cream. Then paid two euro to climb the church tower. That wasn't the end of the climbing. The roof tiles are more or less concrete slabs and you can climb to the very point (see pic) to get the best views over the town, it arena and beaches.

Church viewpoint in Sts Maries. More photos here

Following the Michelin Green Guide Wine Regions of France, we headed for Gallician “a classic wine-making town”. Didn’t try too hard to find the recommended Cave before ending up in Cave Pilote where we tasted both white and red before buying a few bottles of the white. Better luck with the red in the next stop: Vauvert. Here, in Les Vignerons, we were happy with our samples of the 2005 Noble Gress.

Had thought we’d missed a local viewpoint, Pont des Tourradons, but re-discovered the trail by chance. Not overly spectacular but worth a detour nonetheless and yet another example as to how the French use their resources with walking paths and cycling paths running across and in some cases alongside the canal (The Rhone-Sete).

We ended our afternoon (it was about 6.00pm) in St Gilles, in a supermarket of all places. It was our first visit to a real one as the Eco, in town, is more a mini. And so ended our hunt for some super-glue, to repair the Sat-Nav's position in the car!

At the traiteur, we picked up some Gardienne beef, a prepared dish of the local bull meat. It is proving very tender and that Costieres de Nimes is going well with it.

A bientôt!

France's Reddest Town + Penance at the Abbey and Pretty Villages on High

2011-06-13T22:30:00.003+01:00

13.06.11 Tough Guide at Abbaye Senanque, great pics (I think!) of hilltop villages of Gordes & Roussillon (reddest town in France), then late dinner at Adam’s Table.

It is 10.30pm and 22 degrees Celsius as I write this.

Been quite a day, finished just now with a superb “accidental” meal at La Table d’Adam in the town, accidental because our first choice was closed, our second full but the proprietor there kindly sent us 500 metres up the street to Adam’s.

For €23.00, I enjoyed a classically balanced cuttlefish salad, followed by gurnard (maybe red mullet) with a beautiful rice and tapenade accompaniment, polished off by a Raspberry Tiramisu. For Amuse Bouche, we were served tapenade with little rings of toast and the wine was an excellent Rose from the nearby Mas de la Dame.

Great stuff all round, finished off as a little lizard raced up and down and across the white wall behind me!

Roussillon. More photos here

The day began in sombre circumstances, in the cool rooms and chapels of the 13th century Cistercian Monastery of Senanque. Our guide had us for an hour and, though she lost the dressing room after a nonstop 20 minute opening lecture in French to the largely foreign group, she kept going and kept us under thumb until the last minute of the hour. The best views of the abbey are from the hills as you dip down into the valley and the austere rooms have little of interest to the layman, except maybe for the cloisters.

This is the place regularly seen on postcards with neat rows of lavender in bloom. But today’s lavender was well off that stage and that was another let-down.

Back then to the fantastic town of Gordes which clings to the hilltop. Lovely village, parking €3.00 (which is standard enough around here). Again though, the best views are as you approach; that is the time to take your pics, if you can find a safe place to park, not always easy on the narrow roads.

One more village to see today and that was Roussillon, not too far away. This is the town of ochre and they say 17 shades have been used in and around the village. And that seems to be confirmed by a walk-around. One of the few hilltop villages best seen close-up and there are also views of the cliffs from which the many coloured stones have been hewn.

Not sure that Rosé is one of the shades but I couldn’t resist buying a bottle of the local wine from a lovely young man who assured me it was his favourite. It is now in the fridge!

A Famous French Literary Landmark; mainly a Day of Rest

2011-06-12T17:16:00.000+01:00

12.06.11 A Famous French Literary Landmark; mainly a Day of Rest

The Moulin de Daudet is one of the most famous literary landmarks in France and is right here in Fontvieille. We were taking it easy today, so drove the couple of kilometres to the town and then struck off up the path to the mill. Alphonse Daudet (b. 1840 in Nimes) “observed local characters and wrote about their lives with irony and pathos”*.

More photos here

He is less famous aboard than Marcel Pagnol (also born in this department, Bouche du Rhone) but is the number one man here. For €3.50, we were able to visit the windmill, the little museum underneath and the Chateau de Montauban where he stayed as a guest and which has rooms full of interesting exhibits on Daudet and Provencal life (including the Santons).

Temperature was at about the 25C mark. Called to an ice cream parlour in the town and, for the same price as the Daudet trail, bought a really tasty coneful, one boule of strawberry, the other of blackcurrant. Very enjoyable stuff.

Today was mainly a day of rest. Having returned from the town, we hopped out to the back of the gite to the deserted pool for a dip and a rest on the loungers. It was our second visit of the day to the pool and I made some progress with literature of a different kind: John Grisham’s The Confession. Tough going, isn’t it?

*Provence and Cote D’Azur, DK Eyewitness Travel.

Nature Walk; The Mobile Home Beach, Salt Industry plus Snakes and Spice

2011-06-11T20:36:00.001+01:00

11.06.11 Nature Walk; The Mobile Home Beach, Salt Industry plus Snakes and Spice at the Saturday Market

Let me start with a walk on the wild side. Missed the pony rides at Domaine de la Palissade in a place about as far south as you can go in the Camargue. So settled for a walk and then added another one in this nature reserve which includes many hectares of typical Camargue countryside.

Temperatures this afternoon were about 25 degrees as we strolled out. Took in three hides but not much luck, spotting just an avocet and an egret at the first one, a family of swans at the third and a view of the Grand Rhone at the second. In between, a startled pheasant crossed our path and then a family of goldfinch displayed their considerable style in flight. All in all, an interesting walk, or two!, through the scrubby Camargue, all for just 3 euro.

Earlier we had halted at a view point for the salt industry, and it is an industry. The view was close to a village called Salin de Giraud. Flat shallow lagoons, all of a pinkish colour, full with sea water which then evaporates in the hot sun, leaving behind huge salt deposits, seemingly easy pickings for the industry.

We finished the trip a few miles past the nature reserve on a wild beach, huge and surrounded by hundreds of mobile homes. Sun, sand and waves all over the place and just one bar cum restaurant cum shop: Chez Cathy. Otherwise, no facilities whatsoever but the mobile home owners were having a ball in this free-for-all, some settling in for the season by building semi-permanent surrounds. Remember the Ford boxes in Crosser?

In the morning, when the temperatures were about 22 degrees, we visited the Saturday Market in Arles. It was big last week, even bigger this time. Won’t bore you with the shopping details but in addition to the mundane essentials, we stocked up on spices and herbs and this time bought the smaller mussels, always a better tastier bet than the big ones!

Lunch in Gigondas and some serious tasting in a Rasteau paradise!

2011-06-10T20:15:00.002+01:00

10.06.11 Lunch in Gigondas and some serious tasting in a Rasteau paradise!

The Dentelles overlook a planting of Plan de Dieu
More photos here

If you ever visit Hennessey’s distillery in Cognac, you will be shown an area called Paradise, where they keep their oldest brandies. Was reminded of that today in the Provencal town of Rasteau.

Didn’t make the brightest of starts today. Even the squirrel was knocking on our door or at least on the mosquito door shield and then two horsemen on the white Camargue ponies came riding down between the rice fields.

In any event, we didn’t reach Gigondas until about one o’clock. The local Caveau had already been closed for an hour and wouldn’t open for another hour.

If you can’t beat them, join them. So we got one of the last tables at De Verre a L’assiette in the village centre and spent the next hour sampling the wines and eating a salad. I kid you not. Salads here are huge and these were also gorgeous. Mine was Endive with Blue Cheese and nuts (and loads more) while Clare enjoyed Maigret de Canard with Parmesan (and loads more). Olives were supplied while we waited and plenty of bread followed.

Wines were a local Rose at €3.50 a glass and a Fruity Red Gigondas at €4.00. Total cost €31.00. We had to wait a while for the bill and when we got to the Caveau it was packed. From a huge list, managed to taste a few including some old vine Domaine du Grand Montmirial, found it excellent, so much better than the stuff in the nearby restaurant, and bought some.

Headed on then through the Cotes du Rhone scenic routes, calling to pretty villages such as Sablet and Seguret, before hitting the jackpot in the Cave de Rasteau.

This fairly newly built showcase shop for the Cave (itself established in 1925) was one of the best I’ve come across: loads of advice, bags of choice and no shortage of tastings. We needed some “house” wines for the rest of the holiday so started with some “lowly” whites before advancing through some gorgeous local reds before moving on to the fortified sweet stuff which comes in both white (gold) and red.

Their Cotes du Rhone Villages Tradition was very impressive and found its way in some numbers to the boot along with the sweet stuff. Then we drove back along some beautiful countryside, vines in the flat fields and village higher up.

Suddenly, our GPS lady Susie had us on a three lane autoroute. Up goes the speed and up go the tempers. Just missed, by inches, being pranged by a kid driver, madly upset when a automatic toll collector failed to function and tried to force his way across the queues. Lucky escape there, considering all that Rasteau in the back. Whew!

Full house in Roman Arles (then and now)

2011-06-09T21:16:00.000+01:00

Arles arena. More pics here

09.06.11 Full house in Roman Arles (then and now); the river that springs from deep down and a town of waterwheels.

The Arena is Arles is one of the best preserved of the many Roman remains in Provence. It attracted crowds of 20,000 at the start of the first millennium and does the same today for Spanish and Provencal bullfights. It was our first visit of the day and we had some great views over Arles not to mention a bridal party (fantastic dress!) arriving at the arena, presumably for photographs.

Next stop was the nearby Theatre Antique, another Roman remain. This attracted 10,000 for each performance. Like the arena, it fell into decay, but was resurrected and today attracts big crowds for theatre events. Many other remains dot the city and after a visit to the Place du Forum, the social centre of the town, we saw a few more before ending up at a cafe near Les Thermes de Constantin, the remains of a palace, for lunch.

Nine euro bought me a plate of melon and ham, with salad and some tapenade on toast and, while waiting, we were served with a glassful of marinated olives. Not a bad lunch at all though the location was bothered by a capricious breeze.

Back to the gite then before heading off to two towns in the Vaucluse (to the east) with strong water connections. First stop was the attractive L’Isle sur la Sorgue. The river once powered 70 watermills. Nine idle wheels remain today and we saw a few as we enjoyed our stroll around, a stroll that included a stop at very tempting local patisserie.

Soon after we came to the town of Fontaine de Vaucluse. Here is the source of the Sorgue* which begins underground and then, in a natural amphitheatre of rock, erupts from an unfathomable depth and within a few hundred yards forms a fully fledged river.

Nearby, is the Moulin a Papier Vallis Clausa which produces handmade paper, using a river powered waterwheel. The method is the same as that used in the 15^th century. This is on the path up to the source as are many souvenir stands but they have their uses on a hot day as a bottle of coke or an ice cream is always appreciated! The town, like L’Isle de Sorgue, has quite a few riverside restaurants and each town is well worth a visit.

*In Switzerland, there is something similar though not the same. At the spectacular Trummelback Falls, melt water tumbles down from the mountains to start a river in the valley. Check it out here

08.06.11 Van Gogh at the Clinic; Olives, Wine and Lunch at Amandin’s

2011-06-08T21:11:00.003+01:00

08.06.11 Van Gogh at the Clinic; Olives, Wine and Lunch at Amandin’s

The credit card didn’t know what hit it this morning. First call was to the nearby Castelas, an olive oil maker’s shop on the road to Baux de Provence. A couple of tastings and soon we were filling a bag with different types of oil and also quite a few cosmetic products made from the olive.

Minutes later, we were at Mas de la Dame. Mas means farmhouse in these parts and this is an old one. It was painted by Van Gogh during his stay at nearby St Remy but the painting is lost though a “likeness” appears on the winery’s bottles some of which, again after a few tastings, we bought. Coming home to Ireland are some Stèle blanc and Stèle rouge.

Peace in the clinic. More pics here

The card wasn’t needed at all at the next stop, the Clinique St Paul, across the road from the Roman Antiquities featured earlier. The charge to enter this famous establishment, famous because Van Gogh spent an extraordinary productive year here from May 1889 to the following May, was just four euro. The clinic was operating in the same field for hundreds of years before the distraught painter arrived and is still catering to the needs of patients today.

Clafoutis

But there is enough of the place open to the public, including the artist’s bedroom and studio (the place wasn't full in his time, hence the studio availability) and also the 12^th century cloisters, and there is some guide to the scenes he painted in and around the clinic. It is a very special visit with, at this time, lavender and poppy flowers in bloom.

We were following the blog advice of well known Irish wine writer Mary Dowey for our first two stops of the morning and also took her advice for lunch. A quick dash though grassy lanes and modern dual carriageways brought us to the doors of the lovely Auberge de l’Amandin near Beaucaire.

Here, by the small pool, we were seated and presented with a few menus but didn't get past the Menu du Jour. Three excellent courses for €15.80.

Starter: Smoked Salmon with an acidic dip and a lime piece to squeeze.

Mains: A stuffed duo. Not us. Not yet! The duo on the plate was a round courgette and tomato, stuffed with a high class mince (no fat) and served with a tasty couscous.

Dessert: Clafoutis with red cherries.

Now, we were the stuffed duo as we paid up and headed back to the gite for a rest!

Cruise on the Med and King Louis the Saint

2011-06-07T21:11:00.000+01:00

07.06.11 Cruise on the Med and the small Rhone to meet a handsome cowboy; the French King who launched two crusades and became a saint.

Let me start with a small piece of advice. If ever you come to St Maries de la Mer in the Camargue intent on a boat cruise, then be sure to get a seat on the right hand side. The cruise we took this afternoon takes you out on the Med for 15 minutes and up the Petit Rhone for 30 minutes to see the wild black bulls (with their ear tags!) and horses.

Camargue cowboy. More pics here

And you do get to see them – all arranged. A small herd is driven to a clearing on the bank where you have a good view of animals and the cowboy (known here as a Gardian). You will also see a share of bulls and horses at rest in the scrubby riverside pastures and some birds, mainly herons, on the wide river. The return trip costs a reasonable 12 euro.

In the morning, we had visited the 13^th century fortress town of Aigues Mortes, originally fortified to increase trade. That didn't work and so there was no real incentive to maintain the sea access as the Rhone silted up and the town became somewhat detached from the sea. Nowadays, many private boats use the Rhone-Sett? Canal and tie up alongside!

Saint Louis, as he was to become, built it as his only port on the Med; he didn’t command all of France at the time. It was an inhospitable spot and people had to be bribed to come. But the king did launch two crusades from here. Neither crusade could be called successful but his efforts and, in between, in the Holy Land, earned him the gratitude of Rome.

Despite being breached once, during the 100 Years War, the ramparts are intact and you may walk them as we did. The distance is about a mile and there are some great views. You start the tour at the Tour de Constance, the biggest and most impressive of a string of towers which have seen much history. Now they see many tourists.

Being Tuesday, some of the local restaurants were closed for the day but Le Moulin de la Grasiho was open again. Started with a tartare of Advocat and Salmon Thai style, with lime (9.00). Delighted with it and happy also with the main course of Lamb Chops with a Pistachio and Pinenut Crust (20). The Chocolate Mousse (7), with a cocoa sauce and broken bits of white chocolate, was okay but nothing to write home about, so I won’t. A pichet of very good Cotes du Rhone cost me €6.50. Quite happy overall.

06.06.11 Mont Ventoux, a cycling mecca; Beaumes de Venise, Vacqueyra, wine heaven

2011-06-06T20:25:00.002+01:00

06.06.11 Mont Ventoux – Beaumes de Venise – Vacqueyras

Just finishing off a basic Cabernet, quite a nice one by the way, from La Citadelle. That’s the end of the day.

Hard going. More pics here

But let me tell you about the start, not quite the start maybe, I do keep some things to myself, but a sunny midi-morning found us on the way to Malaucene, a little town at the foot of Mont Ventoux (1912m), the windy mountain, best known to us in Ireland as a stage finish in the Tour de France.

As we began to climb from the town, the temperature began to plummet, a degree for every ten cyclists we passed. By the time, we reached the famous summit, it had dropped from 22 degrees to six and visibility was poor because of fog and rain. But that did nothing to dampen the spirit of the bikers, young and old, who’d made it to the summit.

Luckily we parked right alongside the summit marker and took a picture there as did all the cyclists. Bought a souvenir or two in the shop and headed back down through the mist and fog, all the while the valleys below enjoying the sunshine. We stopped and took a few photos on the day down.

From Malaucene, we took a beautiful country road through the vineyards to Beaumes de Venise, passing close to the mountains called the Dentelles (lace). Could perhaps have sought out the Cooperative but settled for the shop of Domaine des Richard in the centre of the hamlet where a lady, with two year’s English, took great care of us.

Her tasting samples were generous to say the least and we left well stocked with the famous fortified sweet wine called Beaumes de Venice and also the producers’ own Plan de Dieu, a lovely red.

Just a few kilometres up the road, we called to Vacqueyras. Oh. Forgot to say it but the sun was out down in the valley all along and temperatures were in the mid 20s and the day bright. Not so here. Hot for sure but it was almost dark in the middle of the village where the plane trees meet and provide a natural umbrella for those imbibing in the cafes.

Here, we found the shop of Chateau Montmirial. Not quite the same rapport here as earlier. They produce Gigondas, Cotes du Rhone and Vacqueyras. It was the latter we were after. The tasting sample was fine and we went off with a pack of Cuvee des Saints Papes!

Temperatures hit 26 degrees on the way home past Avignon and were still high at the gite where we dined on the terrace. Tip: if you are travel up a mountain in summer, make sure you have loads of tee shirts and a windbreaker. On the way up, add a tee-shirt as necessary and reverse the process on the way down!

Delta Day: Black Bull, White Horse, Pink Flamingo and a black Gypsy Saint

2011-06-05T18:38:00.002+01:00

05.06.11 SUNSHINE IN THE CAMARGUE

The Rhone Delta is best known as the Camargue, marshy land of the black bull, the white horse, the pink flamingo and the gypsy.

Sara. More pics here

Once the weather picked up around mid-day, we headed for the area’s top town: Saintes Maries de la Mer. The three Marys and a bunch of others, including their servant Sara, were set adrift after the Crucifixion and landed here. Sara is the patron saint of the gypsies and her statue is paraded in a huge procession in May (and another large one in the autumn). Back in 1948 the man who would be pope, then Papal Nuncio Roncalli, said mass here for the pilgrims.

See the brand!

Beautiful beaches here. Boat cruises too which take you up the Petite Rhone to see the flamingos, bulls and horses. We saw some from the road, especially the horses that were carrying tourists to see the others. Live Spanish style music, clicks and all, drifted from the full cafes and restaurants as we strolled in from the beach. Red and black rice were among the souvenir purchases.

Aigues-Mortes, the other biggish town here, is not too far away and was once a fort to guard against invaders from the sea. It is now some distance from the sea though canal boats park by its side. As this was just a “reccie” tour, we didn’t do the ramparts and so on – all the walls seem intact – but enjoyed strolling through the streets and squares.

Walked into a colourful sweet shop. Loads of samples were proffered by young assistants. We just couldn’t resist and loaded up with nougat and some surprise bits and pieces for friends and relatives at home.

Drove back then through the low flat fields – many planted with vines near Aigues-Mortes – to join the Sunday traffic as it returned to Arles and beyond.

Loads left from yesterday’s market raid on Arles for dinner tonight. Main dish is cod and the wine is from Cassis on the Med (bought from a local wine shop with a very musty but rather rich cellar).

Clouds are back but we are glad to have had our hours in the sun today. Maybe more tomorrow. Fingers crossed.

04.06.11 Arles Market

2011-06-04T14:58:00.000+01:00

More pics here

04.06.11 Arles Market

The Saturday market in nearby Arles is one of the biggest I’ve ever come across: two kilometres of stalls, four deep for most of the way, stretching from the start of Blvd des Lices to the end of rue de la Republique.

We were late arriving, the overnight thunderstorm didn’t help, and had to park a fair bit away from the market. But the walk in gave us a close-up view of the main attractions here: Les Arenes (a very well preserved Roman monument) and the nearby Theatre Antique, another elegant Roman building. Both are still used today and we will visit them in the near future.

While there are many stalls selling leather goods, handmade jewellery and clothes, the vast majority are in the food business. I saw at least five or six stalls selling shellfish and only shellfish while just as many were selling all the other fish.

Strolled down one alley made by two sets of stalls and then up the other. The weather was quite fine at this stage and the cafes were full and quite a few also at Mullins Irish Bar. A brass band played and it was hard enough to make progress such were the crowds out shopping.

But it was tough enough going as our bags filled up and we just about made it all the way. Purchases included cod, mussels, marinated olives, olive tapenade, melons, asparagus, strawberries, and the famous local and rather expensive Banon cheese (wrapped in chestnut leaves). But we’ll be back again to browse through other stalls, including those selling spices, soaps, perfumes, and more...

Just made it back to the car before the heavy thundery rain returned.

One thousand Corkscrews, La Citadelle and a Bunny from Bonnieux

2011-06-03T20:11:00.002+01:00

03.06.11 One thousand Corkscrews, La Citadelle and a Bunny from Bonnieux

La Citadelle, Menebres in background. More pics here

Bonnieux, the pretty old Luberon village, wasn’t looking its best this afternoon as we strolled around about four o’clock. The rain had started to fall and it would get heavier later and Bonnieux didn’t look any more appealing than Kinsale in the same circumstances.

Still, there were a couple of highlights, mostly food related. We found a traiteur where we bought a hearty rabbit dish and also a baker where, aside from the staff of life, we helped ourselves to some gorgeous pastries. Dinner chez nous wasn’t bad at all.

Earlier we had driven from Ménerbes to Bonnieux and had noticed the cherry laden trees en route. Managed to buy a bagful of those red beauties to throw into the dinner mix, not with the bunny from Bonnieux!

Ménerbes is a high village, similar in some respects to Bonnieux, certainly if you are trying to get parking. Wouldn’t like to be around here in high season. There are some terrific views from Ménerbes and one of the places it overlooks is Domaine de la Citadelle whose Cotes du Luberon wines are imported to Ireland via The Wine Store.

Citadelle, aside from producing a range of decent wines, hosts a well known local attraction: the Corkscrew Museum. This faithful ally of the bottle has an ancient history and here, for four euro, you can see more than a 1000 items from the 17^th century to the present day, all brought together by Mr Yves Roussset-Rouard. Many variations on the theme, some very amusing indeed.

Thanks to the Tyrells of the Wine Store, many of us are familiar with the Citadel wines. Still it was great to sample at first hand the products of the vines stretching out in front of me and I particularly enjoyed the Les Artemes Rouge 2006 (11.50) along with Le Gouverneur Rouge also 2006 (18.50). Some of each are now awaiting space on the return trip. Let us be straight; they are guaranteed passage, something else may have to be jettisoned!

02.06.11 Avignon: Palais des Papes, Pont d’Avignon; Costieres de Nime.

2011-06-02T22:00:00.000+01:00

02.06.11 Avignon: Palais des Papes and Pont d’Avignon; Costieres de Nime.

The Grand Tinel. More pics here

Made a first incursion into the Vaucluse today with a memorable visit to Avignon, in particular to two of the major attractions, the imposing 14th century Palace of the Popes and the 12^th century bridge to nowhere Pont St Benezet.

It was a very rainy morning here when we headed out to a park and ride on an island in the Rhone. We parked no problem but there was no sign of the (bus) ride so we walked over a bridge and found ourselves at the gate of the Palace. The popes left war torn Italy during the 14^th century and from 1309 to 1377 seven French Popes ruled unchallenged before a tempestuous return to Rome in 1378.

The palace walls cover some 4.5 km. There are 39 towers and seven gates. The scale is enormous. The Grand Tinel is one of the highlights and today there was a rose show and also an art exhibition among among many things to see. As usual, there is a souvenir shop on the way out and it is the usual type though distinguished by a tasting room (3 tastes for 6 euro) for the famous Cotes du Rhone wine, including some Chateauneuf du Papes.

Our combined ticket (€12.00 for seniors!) covered admission to the nearby 1177 bridge Pont St Benezet, also known as Pont d’Avignon, subject of the famous rhyme Sur le Pont d’Avignon. This bridge, which once spanned the Rhone but, storm damaged many moons ago, now falls short, stopping about two thirds of the way across. In the entrance tower, there is an exhibition of bridge technology and also a series of photos of bridges from around the world including the Limerick footbridge (the Living Bridge).

The rain threatened again as we walked back to our car park (no sign of the Navettes) but luckily held off until we reached the car. We were late enough in reaching Fontvieille and were lucky enough to find Le Moulin de la Grasiho open and with a table available.

Had a superb meal here for €84.00 for the two. My starter was a Melon and Coriander Gazpacho with slivers of Aubergine and Smoked Duck Breast. Delicious also was the slab of Foie Gras with four spices and a fruit chutney (4 euro extra).

We each went for the same mains: two fillets each of sea bream with craqaunts de sesame and coulis d’olive. A great combination, such a tasty match. The plate also had a mix of Mediterranean vegetables.

I picked the classic Iles Flottantes as my dessert and, for the first time in three, really hit the jackpot. It was absolutely gorgeous. The other dessert was possibly even better: a fantail of pear covered by carambar and served with an “iceberg” of chocolate. Reckon we’ll be returning here.

Another good reason to go back was the wine we had. It was a Costiere de Nime blanc 2010 (€16.00), a 14.5% abv 50/50 mix of Grenache blanc and Roussane, with great colour, great nose and smashing flavour. Must bring back some to Ireland!

01.06.11 St Remy de Provence – Chateau d’Estoublon-The Mistral

2011-06-01T18:14:00.000+01:00

01.06.11

St Remy de Provence – Chateau d’Estoublon-The Mistral

Estoublon. More pics here

Amazingly, St Remy de Provence’s www.stremy-de-provence.com Musée Estrine Centre d’Interpretation Van Gogh has none of the famous artist’s paintings, many of which were executed in or near the town. Indeed, there are none either in Arles. Obviously, they didn’t think much of him then but have been scrambling to catch up.

In the St Remy centre, an 18^th century hotel, they substitute with high quality photos of the same size as the paintings. Here you will see an 1889 self portrait, The Sower and Starry Night among many others.

Cubist Albert Gleizes (1881-1953) was another artist who spent a good deal of his life in the area and there is a permanent display in his honour; quite a good one also. We also enjoyed a large show by Lucio Fabti, known for his work as a painter and in the theatre.

We had a smashing lunch in a small place in rue de Chateau, a magnificent dish of tender roast veal with vegetables and a salad, a huge plateful for €12.00.

On the way out of town, called to Glanum, a Greco-Roman town or at least its remains. Highlights are a 10BC triumphal arch, celebrating Caesar’s conquest of the Greeks and Gauls, and a mausoleum dating from about 30BC.

We had some time to spare as we approached our base at Fontvieille and took the chance to visit Chateau d’Estoublon, mentioned in the Michelin Wine Regions of France Green Guide. Sells its own wines along with some fine foods, fashion and furniture. There is no admission charge and you will see some inviting items on the shelves. We helped ourselves to a box of Callissons, some of the famous nougat from Montelimar and also a bottle of the Chateau’s 2010 Rose (€12.00).

Needed something to go with the wine, so we headed for a local traiteur and purchased calamari in a Provencal sauce. Dining in tonight! How bad. Worked an appetite by strolling through the rice fields, adjacent to the house and part of the 320 acre estate here.

The Mistral wind blew hard today, causing a big drop in the temperatures, down to about 15 during the morning. It was also very cloudy at that point but cleared up and warmed up as the afternoon wore on. No wonder the houses here are so well secured with shutters and other tried and trusted methods. Nice to experience the famous Provencal wind but hope it doesn’t last too long!

The market was winding down as we came out of the Van Gogh display and the Mistral was causing problems. A few loose boxes were scattered and one stall was shifted a few feet.

31.05.11 Les Baux – Montmajour – Bull’s Meat

2011-05-31T21:45:00.003+01:00

31.05.11 Les Baux – Montmajour – Bull’s Meat

Action on Les Baux. More pics here

Not the best of weather today. Twenty degrees yes but generally cloudy and often windy. Still, we were out and about.

We became statistics at the amazing hilltop fortress of Les Baux de Provence, joining the two million visitors per year. The site dates back to the 10^th century and is a lively visit with some tough walking required and ancient war machines in action. Views are fantastic here. Here also we had our first view of the region’s Santons, handmade figures usually in local costume, particularly famous for their crib scenes.

Our afternoon visit also has 10^th century links. The Montmajour Abbey is massive, very impressive indeed and just about 3 kilometres from our base. Admission is 7 euro a head and well worth it.

There are many highlights in this imposing place but the one that really engaged me was the burial places in the rock (see photo). Fascinating. Also great views, just like Baux. Got my first glimpse of a bunch of Camargue ponies from here and Arles was also clearly visible.

In between, we had visited a Roman Aqueduct. No. Not the famous one at Pont du Gard but one just down the road from us in Fontvieille. Indeed, the road is called the Aqueduct Romaine. It is not in anywhere near as good condition as Gard but quite an impressive reminder nonetheless.

After all the walking, hundreds of steps in Baux and Montmajour, we were hungry and decided to head out to the nearby town of Maussane. Two restaurants on our shortlist were closed and another had a later opening so we settled for a corner spot, suitably entitled Le Coin Gourmand.

It was tiny and we were squeezed in with other diners and here I had my first taste of the Camargue bull. Tough enough I must say as was my seat but generally the meal was excellent. Enjoyed a goat’s cheese starter and a huge salad. The other main dish was a very satisfactory pair of lamb chops served with (same as the beef) ratatouille and a tasty piece of a pasta tart. Desserts weren’t bad at all. Mine was a Soufflé Glacé with Calissons d’Aix and hers was a really moist Fig and Almond tart, better then anything in the dessert line that we ate in the Dordogne last year.

Wine had to be local. For some strange reason, lost in translation, I was refused a 50cl pichet (think it was only available at lunch) and was “forced" to settle for a tasty spicy bottle of local Vin de Pays from the surrounding Alpilles.

PROVENCE DAY 3

2011-05-31T21:00:00.000+01:00

30.05.11 Moissac-Arles

More pics here

Easy enough drive today. First through the 3 lane ring road of Toulouse and then on the motorway past Carcassonne, Beziers and Montpellier before skirting Nimes and heading for Arles. A few kilometres later, we turned right onto the D82 and minutes later (1250 or so km after leaving Roscoff) we turned in the gate of our gite. Thanks a million, Susie, our GPS hostess!

Sylvie is our hostess at the gite and she take us though the various bits and pieces we need to know, including the address of the nearest supermarket, just about a mile away. The gite booklet has loads of info on the area.

Sylvie’s mother turns up with some fruit and veg to add to the bottle of wine gift from Sylvie. We get a bit of unpacking done and have a cup of tea before heading for the Ecomarket in Fontvieille.

Just a few essentials bought, not a major shop at all. But we do get some wine and have our first taste of the local stuff at a late dinner. It is a bottle from the historic Mas de la Dame, once the subject of a painting by Van Gogh. The wine is a Rose de Mas, Le Baux de Provence, 2010. Went very well with the melon.

Am typing this as darkness falls amid a chorus of cicada calls.

PROVENCE DAY 2

2011-05-30T22:09:00.000+01:00

29.05.11 Roscoff-Moissac (1250kms)

View from hotel. More pics here

Up early on a dull morning. The sun came out as we drove the 800 plus kilometre stretch to

Moissac and to the hotel Moulin de Moissac, a gorgeous old riverside hotel. Our room overlooked the river Tarn. In a park on the bank, an unlikely country and western festival was taking place with Ghost Riders in the Sky welcoming the western clad visitors. A nearby canal, Canal de Deux Mers (?), was full of boats.

Had booked dinner in the hotel, not realising it was French Mothers Day. We had a special menu for the event and again hit the jackpot. We had a choice of three dishes for each course and these are what I choose. Absolutely no regrets – really classy food.

Asparagus in light crispy pastry with Morille mushrooms.

Medallion of fried veal with creamed artichoke cream and black truffle.

Raspberry Clafoutis with a raspberry sorbet.

The wine was a George Deboeuf Brouilly, the wine for any meal according to it publicists. Don’t know about that but sure went well with this one and we finished it out on the terrace as the country music faded for the night.

Motorway tips:

Driving down to Bordeaux from Roscoff, you could well be ready for a stop when you reach Aire du Rennes, about the only decent motorway station on this section. It is about 13 kms west of Rennes. Once you go past Rennes, and more so, after passing Nantes, you are well supplied with very good stations; one of the best is the Aire de Vendee.

If you follow my route to the sun and turn east at Bordeaux, one to watch out for is the Station Carrefour Aire du Mas D’Agenais on autoroute A62. It is close to Agen.

PROVENCE DAY 1

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28.05.11 On Board

Onboard dining. More pics here

Brittany Ferries advertise that your French holiday starts the moment you step aboard the Pont Aven in Ringaskiddy. Ours started just after the Carrigaline/Ringaskiddy roundabout when three fellows, from a French registered car, stopped and relieved themselves on the side of the road. Not quite Oh-la-la! More like Eau-la-la.

Continental class returned on board where we enjoyed a superb meal in the main restaurant Le Flora. Starter was Crevettes en Cage (see photo), or Prawns entwined in a cage (twine like pieces) of grated deep fried potato. New to me, very inventive and a great match with the braised artichoke and a salad.

Main course for me was the Roast Fillet of Beef served with artichoke and potatoes a la Chatelaine. A superb meal as was the other main course: Viennese style Sole served with white beans and a Matignon of vegetable with mussels.

A plate of French cheese followed and the highlight for me was the Bleu d’Auvergne. Dessert was something else: Soufflé Grand Marnier. Well worth a try if you are ever on board. Wines, from a long French list, were Ch. Noaillac Medoc 2006 Cru Bourgeois and Laroche Bourgogne Chardonnay Tete de Cuvee 2009

KILLARNEY March 2011

2011-03-20T16:00:00.001Z

KINGDOM WALKS
Click on images to enlarge

Walked quite a bit, for an amateur walker, in three days in the Kingdom of Kerry recently. Was staying in Killarney so most of the walking was done in that area.

Day 1: The sun was shining as we arrived in Killarney. Headed for Torc Waterfall and walked up to the higher car park, following a colour marked trail that took us to a junction with the old Killarney-Kenmare Road. Looped back after a while and back down to the main Killarney-Kenmare main road.

Then took a path, slightly higher than and parallel to the main road, to the entrance of Dinis (pronounced die-nis) Cottage. Oh, by the way, another Kerry correction: Listry is pronounced Lis-try (as in rugby)! It is about 15 minutes further in to get to the cottage but well worth it for the beautiful lake views. Back then along the same way to Torc. Checked into the Hotel and had a stroll around the town before dinner.

DAY 2: In the morning, drove to Muckross House in the National Park. There are many sign-posted walks here but we headed for Dinis Cottage, along a different route from the day before. It is above five kilometres each way. Sometimes you have lake water on your left, sometimes on your right, and even sometimes on both sides as at Brickeen Bridge. We also passed some old long disused copper mines.

Weather was dry and dull but brightened up in the afternoon when we took some time out to watch the Killarney St Patricks Day Parade. This is more or less a community event with many local clubs and schools marching by, also some old tractors and cars.

DAY 3: The walking highlight was to come on the morning of the third day, a beautiful morning. We drove directly to the higher Torc car park, finding it turning left, on the main Killarney-Kenmare Road, by a small sign that says the Old Killarney-Kenmare Road. A herd of the local deer crossed the road in front of us before we reached the car park.

Once the car was parked, we carried on in the same direction, passed a barrier and walked about a mile. By this point, the trees have thinned out, more or less completely and you see mountains on your left (including Mangerton) and Torc is on your right.

At this point, watch out for the beginnings of the path up Torc. You will see a path of flat stones and a small blue sign. Now you really start your way up. The path is made up of stretches of these flat well laid stones and also stretches of railway sleepers. It is not very difficult but you are on a mountain, climbing upwards. You need to have the correct gear and need to be careful.

I didn't time it exactly but most amateurs would need an hour or so going up, maybe ten or fifteen minutes less coming down. There are some mountain views all round as you go up but the best views are from the summit. So don't turn back; take a break and carry on. It is well worth it as you look out over the Muckross parkland, the lakes, the mountains and the town. Fantastic.

The backs of the legs were feeling the strain as we returned to the car park. Just I case they seized up altogether we took a walk around the town in the late afternoon and enjoyed some terrific views of the cathedral under the blue skies. I can guarantee we were well ready for dinner that evening.

To check out where we stayed and dined, go here

GREAT DORDOGNE BASE

2010-06-28T12:28:00.001+01:00

LES CEDRES
Rue Marc Delbreil
Sarlat 24200

http://www.holiday-rentals.co.uk?p85865

If you are thinking of exploring the Dordogne, land of wine, ducks, geese, caves, walnuts, chateaus and rivers, then you need a place like Les Cedres.
We spent a month there this summer and it was brilliant. The situation is perfect. Sarlat is the centre of many of the area’s attractions. It is an engaging town itself and the accommodation is just 15 minutes walk from the mediaeval centre. And that 15 minutes is accurate, believe me. Beside, the apartment is very close to the main roads to places like Bergerac and Cahors and three supermarkets are within a couple of minutes drive.
There is a bigger villa in the grounds but we stayed in the one bedroom apartment which is attached to the owners’ house. Milos and his Waterford wife Rosemary, along with son George, are great and friendly hosts, very helpful with all kinds of hints as regard where to go and where to eat. They even supply charcoal for the barbecue.
The gardens are lovely and from time to time you will see deer wander through and squirrels dart from tree to tree. There is also a smashing pool away in its own corner, a veritable sun trap, and a very welcome retreat after a few hours driving in the hot sun. Beside, you have your own barbecue area under the trees but still warmed by the evening sun.

WEEK 4, DAY 25 - 26 -27-28/29

2010-06-10T14:25:00.002+01:00

Chateau de Castelnaud

24250 Castelnaud la Chapelle

Tel: 05 53 31 30 00

www.castelnaud.com

When the 100 years war broke out in 1337, Chateau de Castelnaud was already over a 100 years old. It would change hands some seven times in the next hundred or so before being finally captured by the French in 1442. Today, the semi-restored but essentially bare bones château, still privately owned, is listed as a Historic Building and it a museum of medieval warfare.

Our afternoon visit today (€7.80 each, plus a 3 euro council parking charge), coincided with that of perhaps a hundred French schoolchildren. And their chatter enlivened the visit. Besides, some practical demonstrations had been laid on for them and, as a result, we were able to see a rock throwing machine in action and also a teenage pupil being kitted out as a knight.

Not all the weapons are active of course but you could see that the likes of the crossbow and a more modern (16^th century) “organ” could do severe damage, no matter what kind of armour (and there is quite a lot of that on show here) you wore. The organ had 12 gun barrels and could sweep a battlefield with lead balls.

Personally, looking at some of the older multi-bladed or multi-spiked weapons for hand to hand fighting, I think I’d have preferred to have fought in more recent times when a bullet would bring a relatively quick end, that is if I had to fight at all.

All in all, a very interesting visit and more to see now than there was the last time I came in 1993. Then I bought the kids and, obviously, you can still bring yours and they will enjoy the visit which also includes a couple of audio visual presentations and a trek up through the narrow staircase of one of the towers which is rewarded with fine view over the Dordogne river and deadly rival Beynac Castle not too far away.

Casino Supermarches

Sarlat le Caneda

05 53 30 84 00

With the rain pouring down in the morning, I did a wine review and noticed a few deficiencies. Rectified that to some degree with a visit to the local Casino (Supermarket!) on the way back from visit to Chateau de Castelnaud. Reinforced the Bandol and Pecharmant Red. Also bought a bottle of Vin de Pays du Perigord (Vin de Domme 2008 - Merlot and Cabernet Franc).

With the weather dodgy, we decided to stay in this evening and that Vin de Pays went well with the excellent Navarin d’Agneau (€8.34) that we bought in the traiteur. Surprisingly, the Vin de Pays was the most expensive bought today.

Starters were crevettes in pastry, also from the traiteur. Desserts were inviting strawberries followed by a pastry with the name of Religieuses, though I think the same may be referred to as a Nun’s Fart. We bought the pair of Religieuses in the supermarket but for quality in pastry you are guaranteed much better in the specialist shops.

WEEK 4, DAY 26

Sa Gouffre de Proumeyssac

Sa Gouffre de Proumeyssac

BP No 7

24260 Le Bugue

www.proumeyssac.com

Despite the morning’s torrential rain, we were out and down today. Down in Gouffre de Proumeyssac, that is. Driving through the rain and the heavy water on the roads was all made worthwhile by a visit to this spectacular chasm in the ground near La Bugue.

The huge cave became well known after getting the nod from E.A. Martel in 1907 but its history goes back much further, the earliest mentions being in the 18^th century. Early visitors went down in a cradle or basket and you can still do that today. I didn't and I’m sorry.

In fact, nobody seemed to take it up, maybe because it cost close to double the €8.60 simple entry cost. The original entry hole, once used for dumping rubbish (including animal carcases) is used for the basket but the normal tourist is guided down a sloping tunnel (photo) and into the huge chasm to start his circular trip on the balcony.

Then the lights go out and you see the basket descend. Music plays and the lights come up again reflecting off the dropping water (not too much of it!). Then you see the stalactites and stalagmites and columns and the little lake at the bottom.

We were supplied with an audio-guide (5 or 6 languages are available) and this was certainly a help but you do miss the personality of the guide. Our helpful fellow raised a few laughs as he took us around. There are some huge crystallations, including one called the Medusa.

The facility is well equipped with car parks, picnic areas and walks and, don’t forget to go and see the original entrance, now with a small structure over it, from where the basket works.

During a break in the rain, we made our final visit of this trip to the Sarlat Market this morning. It was all rather subdued and as we don't plan to eat in anymore we weren’t really on the lookout for purchases, though I did help myself to a cheese cutter and serving tool which set me back all of five euro.

Subdued was also the operative word as we walked through the medieval centre this evening on the way to Auberge de Mirandol. The Mirandol though was quite busy with ground and second floors full.

We have praised the value available in the set menus in restaurants in Sarlat but once you go a la carte the prices creep into Irish territory. Take this evening’s bill for example: Three courses for me and two for the advisor, along with a half bottle of a very satisfactory Julian Savignec Bergerac sec (Sauvignon and Semillon), came to €62.00.

My starter was a Hot Goats Cheese Salad, that is a couple of rounds of the local cabecou on toasted bread with loads of lettuce and other greens. I enjoyed my mains of a fillet of Hake with a lemon butter sauce and the local potatoes and veg and finished off with a favourite dessert: Iles Flottante.

The rain really put a damper on the eating business this evening and as we headed back towards the car we saw many of the restaurants with their chairs up on tables, having surrendered to the inevitable and hoping for better things tomorrow. Aren’t we all?

WEEK 4, DAY 27

Montfort, Le Roque Gageac

The day started delightfully when we saw a couple of deer crossing the gardens.

The rain had yet to appear as we arrived at the viewing point above Montfort to have a look at the big bend on the Dordogne. And there were a few drops as we drove off towards La Roque Gageac.

The threat from above was still evident as we arrived at the riverside village, looking much sadder than a few short weeks back when we took a sunny trip on the boat. Now the gabarres are temporarily out of business because of the rise in the river which has flooded the embarkation points.

The village itself is also blocked off and most shops closed and, as it’s not due to roadworks, one can only assume that the danger may be from the rocks above. We do take a stroll around but the rain arrives as we leave to head back to the gite.

Time then to say goodbye to our gite owners, Milos, his wife Rosemary and their son George, before heading out to Sarlat for one last meal at the Mirandol. We stick with the traditional this evening.

Starters are Foie Gras with toast and relishes followed by the Duck confit cassoulet. After the goats cheese and salad we both go for Crème Brule. Our wine this evening is our favourite Pecharmant, the R du Roi and, courtesy of the house, we finish off with a local speciality, a classy Prune Eau de Vie!

DAY 28/29

The intention was to have a good night’s sleep before an early start Friday to the 500 miles plus journey from Sarlat to Roscoff. But that was knocked on the head, both by that late eau-de-vie plus the lightning from a neighbouring storm that floodlit the garden area around and about midnight.

We left the house about 45 minutes ahead of schedule and had an easy drive through the hills and valleys of the Dordogne from where the mists were rising as we headed for the motorway (A89) that would take us towards Bordeaux and the next motorway.

Joined the A89 near Thenon and soon saw our first service area but didn’t see another until about 70k from Bordeaux. It was called the Aire des Palombieres and we made it our first stop. It had a little cafe, shop, self-service hot drinks (I had a double espresso for €1.30), and all the usual facilities, including petrol of course.

We reckoned we saved ourselves some miles and time by leaving this motorway at Libourne and heading across a minor road (D670) from connection to the A10. The Sat-Nav took us through Libourne (a small town in any case) and a string of villages and soon we were on the A10 and heading north.

Facilities are excellent on the stretch from Bordeaux to Nantes and the toll costs are about 27 euro. Our first stop was at the Aire de Poitou/Charente but I know also that there are really good ones after that, including Aire de Vendee.

Back in early 80s, there was hardly a Cork driver on tour who didn’t get lost in Nantes. Roads have improved hugely since then but there is still at least one dodgy spot on the return journey. That comes on the péripherique after exit 38 and before exit 37 (which is the one you want for Rennes). After exit 38, keep to your left. Otherwise you will be in danger of going on to Paris and find yourself pleading to be let in to the correct lane!

I can’t say I noticed any decent services areas between Nantes and Rennes, so bear that in mind. Rennes has rarely posed problems for returning drivers but again there is a potential one when making your turn off the rocade (same as péripherique). You’ll be looking for St Brieuc and Brest. On seeing the sign, you’ll exit right but straightaway – and I mean straightaway - you are faced with a choice. Immediately, there is a divide in the road and you take the one on the left. If you have Sat-Nav, she’ll be shouting at you: exit right and then stay left. One to watch out for as it happens in seconds.

Facilities on the Rennes-Morlaix road (a motorway, rather than an autoroute) have improved and, just maybe 10-15 ks out of Rennes, we stopped at a place called Aire D’Amour et D’Argoat. Shell have the petrol concession here and this is as good as any aire you’ll find on the autoroutes. It also has a Wi-Fi corner plus tourist info counter.

Didn’t see anything like this again but there are a few more basic stops along the way over to Morlaix. Also, as this is a motorway (not an autoroute), you’ll have plenty of opportunities to pull off and fill your petrol tank in one of the nearby villages. But thus could be time-consuming, especially if your time to make the ferry is diminishing.

If anyone has any info to add to these motorway tips, please let me know.

In the event, we made the ferry with plenty of time to spare. While the loading can be a bit of a lottery, we were one of the first to get on board. We were hungry so headed for the self-service restaurant, the Angele. Tow steaks with potatoes (chips or gratin) and all the vegetables you wanted, plus two desserts and 50cl of Rhone valley wine came to €29.00. They didn’t last long.

Enjoyed a point after that in the bar. Kronenberg 1664 was the choice and a pint and a glass came to €6.20. The journey home, started at 9.30 French time on Friday, arrived 10.00am Irish time Saturday, was smooth and uneventful and the sun was out at Ringaskiddy as we berthed!

WEEK 4 DAY 22

2010-06-05T17:41:00.002+01:00

WEEK 4, DAY 22

Twenty three degrees in the pool, thirty three outside of it, so we enjoyed a welcome dip at noon after a short visit to the bustling Saturday market in Sarlat.

With the weather so warm, we had decided to stick with the barbecue and take a couple of steaks out of the freezer in the garage. Bought a few bits of fruit and veg to make up the meal – no need to buy wine, though I was tempted by some Rosette moelluex from the Bergerac AOC area.
The wine eventually used with the steak was a Bandol rouge 2002, a smashing wine, made mainly from the Mourvedre grape. Cost €7.00.

Wasn’t all that keen on heading to the market but should have known better as there is always something different. And, this morning, that something different was provided by a ten foot dancing bear who came to the market on his bike, advertising a day long Fete.

Surprised then to see the actor get off the bike and stroll around among the market customers. Everyone was keen to take a break and have a look. The stallholders were just as keen as anyone else and even stopped serving while the “bear” slowly made his way through the centre.

Les Cabanes du Breuil

St Andres – Allas

06 80 72 38 59

Cabanes-du-breuil.com

A shorter trip was needed this hot afternoon and Les Cabanes du Breuil fitted the bill to perfection. Following a “mysterious origin” (typical French brochurese), these huts, not dis-similar to the beehive huts seen in Kerry, were the rural residence of the Sarlat Benedictines 'til the middle of the 15^th century. In the 18^th and 19^th, they were used by craftsmen and, since 1950, this remarkable heritage has been preserved within a working family farm.

This is a pretty genuine farm as goose and ducks wander around with their young and are indeed housed in the cabanes themselves. The old barn is now the video room and there is a collection of old farm machinery including tractors, movers and harrows.

The huts are apparently the traditional dry stone buildings of the area but this original preservation and presentation is certainly well worth the four euro entry fee. Indeed, the display by the farm’s pea-cock was worth that much.

Pics, from top: Sarlat Bear, Duckling at Breuil and Ancients Huts

WEEK 4, DAY 23

Very dull morning here in Sarlat, livened up by a solitary peal of thunder and a short shower and more pleasingly by the purchase of some Bandol Rose from the local Casino where we’d gone to dump the bottles of the previous week and stock up on essentials such as bread and milk. The Bandol cost €6.50. Was on the lookout for a red and white from the area but no joy here.

In the lazy afternoon, walked through a different part of Sarlat, including the public park, and came back through the town centre, checking the restaurants for this evening. The weather is dull and there are few people out and about even though the temperatures feel as if they are in the low 20s.

Despite checking out a few “new” venues, we ended up at our “old” favourite Auberge de Mirandol. And what a meal we had for €18.00 each. Their suggested wine was a Percharmant, a 2004 R du Roi for €16.00. It was absolutely excellent and perhaps our favourite wine of the three weeks so far.

We started the meal with Foie Gras mis-cuit with three different relishes, including a Monbazillac jelly. Second starter for me was the Marinated Salmon (with Salad) while the other one was a well presented half Melon with a fair dash of that Monbazillac wine in the centre.

We agreed on the main course, not very substantial but gorgeous: Breast of Duck in a truffle sauce with Sarlandais potatoes and haricot vert. Then followed he usual cheese course though this time it was cabecou (with salad) rather than Rocamadour.

There was an extra in the dessert line-up and I went for it. It was the melt in the mouth French classic Isles Flottantes. We also had Crème Brule and that too was excellent. A big crowd in to the Mirandol on this unpromising Sunday night and that is a good sign of an excellent restaurant where the food and the service is always top class, always friendly, despite the odd language mix-up.

WEEK 4, DAY 24

Chateau de Hautefort

24390 Hautefort

www.chateau-hautefort.com

05 53 50 51 23

Chateau de Hautefort is best seen from the near distance. This imposing fortress is seen clear above the village for miles around.

From Roman times, there has been a fortress here and today the oldest part is the 14/15^th century Tower of Brittany. On paying the admission of €8.50, you undertake a self-guiding tour though various parts of the often restored castle, seeing many of the rooms with their furniture and wall hangings.

In the immediate area around the castle, you have quite impressive French style gardens, mainly trimmed box with, here and there, a few concessions to colour with the use of flowers. Another attraction is supposed to be the English style gardens but this has been better days as you will see from the empty water-garden and other missing bits.

The Chateau, now run under the rules of a foundation, obviously rents out its facilities to pay the huge costs. On the day we visited, we saw vans and cars at the entrance making deliveries for a reception that evening. A marquee had been set up in the main courtyard, a drinks reception was being arranged under the hedge tunnel and an “orchestra” was also being set up.

You could come a long way and pay your money and then find the close-up views you wanted of the castle spoiled by the parking of the tradesmen and suppliers. But don’t worry, the best views are from the near distance. Of course, if you are interested in the gardens, the tapestries, ornaments and furniture, and many of you are, by all means come and do the tour. Otherwise, take your photo down the road and carry on.

The sunshine helped today which started with a walk into Sarlat to our traiteurs but disappointingly, and you often find this in France, they were closed on Mondays. Should have known better. Still all was not lost. Called to a corner shop Epicerie on the way back as we knew they also do prepared dishes and here we picked up some pork in a Madeira sauce.

Returning from Hautefort, we called to the Carrefour supermarket in town and bought some other bits and pieces. Now, with a bottle of excellent Buzet just opened, we are all set for a fine easy going meal in the sun. Must make the best of it. A petrol-lady, close to Hautefort, when I remarked in basic French that today was fine, told me: “Ajourdoui oui. Bad Demain!”

Photos from top: Walnut trees, Hautefort and Box hedges at Hautefort.

WEEK 3, DAY 15

2010-05-30T15:03:00.031+01:00

WEEK 3, DAY 15

BREAD AND FISH AND WINE

Golden Beef, 10 Av. Aristide Briand, 24200 Sarlat

This morning’s early mission was to get some bread. No problem. Strolled down to the nearby butchers who have a Depot de Pain. Back in less than ten minutes with a baguette that cost 78 cents.

Pavillion de la Marée, Martine Fredieu, rue Henri Rebiere, ZI la Serve, 24110 St Astter

It took much longer to work our way through the huge market that takes over most of Sarlat’s streets on a Saturday morning. After the beef excesses of the previous night, decided on some fish from our “regular” stall: Pavillion de la Marée. Selection didn’t include Julienne but we did buy some panga, despite the fact that neither of us knew what it was and not one of our books had a translation!

Picked up a few other bits and pieces and also ticked off another one of our wines with a 7 euro purchase of a 2002 Bandol rouge.

Still on the lookout for Julienne (ling), we were disappointed not to see a second fish stall that we had previously used. Called to the Fishmongers on the main street but their selection was very limited and we gave up waiting on the queue at the local traiteur as it was out the door. Out of luck also at a small store who had sold out of prepared dishes but we did buy a jar of Soupe de Poissons (always handy for lunch).

That meant a return visit to the Golden Beef. The queue here was also big enough but eventually we got our turn and turned down stuffed cabbage in favour of a carton of freshly prepared paella which contained enough for two and cost us €6.36.

With the food safely in the gite, it was time to head out for the bastide town of Montpazier, another of France’s most beautiful villages. This little town has remained almost unchanged for 800 years and has been used as a location for quite a few medieval period films.

No films today but some of the old games for kids, including stilt-walking, were on display and being put to use. Much the same, though not exactly so, as those seen in Sarlat a few days ago. Certainly the old Market Hall and the archways of the town, where many of the houses have balconies, was a most unusual setting and well worth a visit.

Sat down under the brollies in one of the square’s restaurants for a cup of coffee (€3.00 for double espresso). Enjoyed that before moving on to the nearby hilltop village of Belves where there is a 15^th century Covered Market and some medieval remains. A picturesque spot and another of France’s most beautiful places and that is official!

Back then to the gite for that paella and Bergerac Sec but first a bottle or two of Hoegaarden! (The bottles are small!).

Photos from top: Sarlat Market, poppy field and Monpazier

WEEK 3, DAY 16

Rainy Day Sarlat

J Grolier Foie Gras

24260 Le Bugue

05 53 07 22 64

www.foiegras-groliere.com

If all the restaurants in the centre of Sarlat are serving up Foie Gras, then all the shops seem to be selling it. But are they? You need to read the labels carefully, otherwise you could well be presenting Aunt Mary with a Terrine du Canard.

We had an idea of what we wanted by the time we called to Groliere Foie Gras on rue de la Liberté and met a helpful person who had once visited Ballina and had happy memories of eating salmon there. She pointed us in the direction of a special offer that meant we left the store having bought three jars of the real thing for the price of two.

The previous Sunday in Sarlat had been a scorcher but this was what we Irish like to call “a soft day”. We’d thought we’d take advantage of the lack of crowds to do the Sarlat tour, a tour we had neglected since arriving, a bit like the Corkman not ringing the bells of Shandon.

We have been using the excellent DK Eyewitness Travel Guide for the area since we arrived and followed its street by street guide here, seeing some medieval streets and buildings we had not seen before or had half-seen with a bunch of market stalls up against them.

Sunday, though, we more or less had the place to ourselves and, at our leisure, as the mist came and went, we strolled through the narrow streets of Siege and Rousseau, past the Chapel of the White Penitents (right)before coming to the familiar rue des Consuls and our favourite Mirandol restaurant. Then on to Place de la Liberté, around the back of the Cathedral, into the huge church , where an organist was playing, and out again.

Just in front of us was the famous Maison de La Boétie (left) which was hosting an exhibition of photos showing Sarlat before and after its reconstruction.

Enjoyed the walk and the sights. Then called to the tourist office for the latest leaflets before doing that little bit of shopping that saw us meet the lady who must have loved the Moy salmon!

WEEK 3, DAY 18

Bergerac Museums

There was always going to be a trip to the Maison de Vins in Bergerac and we took the opportunity today, a dull day with temperatures at 22 degrees, fine for a 70 km drive. Our Sat-Nav took us right to the door but the parking was full, though there was ample within walking distance.

The facility though was closed from 12.30 to 14.00, so we lunched in a nearby outdoor (and indoor) restaurant: Le Croq Magnon, Pl Pelissiere, 24100 Bergerac. Here we had a massive omelette with potatoes for €10.00.

The house of Bergerac wines is in an old religious building, the Cloitre des Recollets and, if you enter from the back, you will be in the old courtyard. A long panel tells the story of wine through the ages in French and English and then you go downstairs.

Here you may take in a video, again in English or French, on the season in a vineyard. Then you must do your sniffing test. All the parfums are in little glasses. Check how good your nose is. Mine was dire.

The next stop is the shop. There was no real buzz here, maybe because the visit was free. I think most of the tourists who make their way here really want a bit of help with their purchasing. There is a huge stock, all of the AOCs, and many of the producers represented. It is a bit much to take in unless you have some guidance, even a leaflet.

There was also a tasting facility but that didn’t seem to be operating. It was however, very well laid out with the bottles numbered and priced around a centre stand. Already pretty well off in some of the AOCs, I concentrated today on Montravel and went to choose a few bottles.

The assistant was very helpful at this point and even offered to change one of my larger notes for me, which is pretty unusual in France.
Later, on way back to gite, called to supermarket where I added to collection with a bottle Cotes de Duras, a lively little white that didn't last very long, polished off that evening with some Julienne (white fish).

From there, we made the short trip to the Museum of Tobacco (there is also a Museum of Wine but we gave that a skip). The Tobacco story is told in another old building, Maison Peyradede. It is rather unexciting, consisting of the most part of old smoking devices (mainly pipes) and bits of machinery along with much written information.

Tobacco, as most of you know, came from the New World and one of the more amusing exhibits was a pipe used by the Native Americans, it’s like seen in many westerns over the decades. Tobacco is still grown in the Dordogne.

Had my camera ready and eye peeled but failed to find a Fumer Interdit sign here. Disappointed not to find one but at only four euro and boasting a badly needed toilet (the one in the House of Wine was closed and a Pay and P facility nearby was out of order), the visit passed pleasantly enough.

Pics from top: Cyrano has a better nose than me, old Bergerac and the House of Wine.

WEEK 3, DAY 19
Les Jardins de L’Imaginaire
Rue Jean Rouby, Terrasson
05 53 50 37 56
www.ot-terrasson.com

A short few years back, the people of Terrasson put their heads together and came up with the idea of a Garden area of Imagination as an attraction for their small town.
Visited it today and, despite a touch of hype in the brochures and also from the guide, it was a very enjoyable hour and a quarter. Water is perhaps the main feature of the garden and all the water is recycled right down to the fountain at the entrance.
There are moss terraces and a rose garden and other distinct areas. All are well laid out and there is also a belvedere where there is a brilliant view of the area of the town below dominated by the church.
Dry stone walls feature in the gardens and also in a living breathing structure at the end of the walk, a structure that contains an exhibition of the Japanese art of Niwaki, not to be confused with Bonsai. The trees are allowed to grow bigger and into more natural shapes.
We followed the tour with a walk around the town and enjoyed its many water features and vistas, particularly those around and about the 12^th century bridge which spans the Vezere here.
This morning saw us visit the medieval quarter of Sarlat for our 3^rd Wednesday market in a row. People ask us if we get fed up of the markets. The answer is no. For always there is some variation. This morning, for instance, there were two new musical acts.
We did get a few bits and pieces in the stalls but our big call today was to the traiteur called Charcuterie de Campange, SAS Vaux, 24200 Sarlat. I’m surprised at the amount of Irish people who visit France who do not even know of the value of the traiteur.
Here, you can get many French classic dishes and other lesser known classy ones for a very good price. That means your dinner is sorted. Heat in the oven or microwave as required and voila you get a terrific meal.
We spent just over 15 euro there this morning. Top purchase, at €4.99, was Jambon with sauce medere (ham with Madeira sauce); Sarlat potatoes; tomatoes farci (stuffed tomatoes) and Boudin Noir with onions which cost €1.37.
Having returned from Terrasson, we had that ham along with the potatoes and it turned out to be excellent, going down well with a bottle of Fronton. Dessert was a few very tasty macaroons (at €1.50 each) which came from an artisan producer in the market.
Just to give you a comparison, the meal costs were as follows: Melon starter 2.60, mains 9.89, dessert 4.50, wine c 2.00. Total for two: €18.99.

Pics from top left: Sarlat market, Terrasson Town and Garden

WEEK 3, DAY 20
Chateau de Beynac

A bit wary as we headed up to Beynac to view yet another château but we needn’t have worried as this turned out to be an excellent visit which cost €7.50 per adult.
This is a most impressive building, dating from 12/13^th centuries. You pass the 12^th century keep just after the entrance. Richard the Lionhearted was here in 1189. As you go on, you see the parts from the 14^th and 17^th centuries.
From the 14^th century keep, you step onto the southern terrace. Here you are some 450 feet above the Dordogne and overlooking a beautiful panorama of river, villages and fields. The reconstruction goes on and will be completed until 2130.
Then, in the hot sun, we walked down the narrow streets to the river and enjoyed a lunch at one of the riverside cafes where a Steak Haché and chips cost €8.50. Back to the gite and a dip in the pool.
Late, in the afternoon, strolled back to the old quarter of Sarlat where we enjoyed a drink (Stella Artois, 3 euro for 25cl) at one of the square side cafes, Le Festival. Here we enjoyed watching the world go by before heading to the gite again and a dinner based around Stuffed Tomatoes and Black Pudding.

Photos: Detail from 14th cent oratory, Castle stables, Dordogne at Beynac and view from the Chateau

WEEK 3, DAY 21
Cadouin, Limeuil
Cloitre de Cadouin, 221 bis, rte ‘dAngouleme, 24000 Perigeux

Woke to a lovely morning here in Sarlat, made even lovelier when a small deer skipped its way around the garden shrubbery. Just in case you think it was dawn, it was far from it as it was just before ten.
Headed out then to visit the World Heritage site of Cloitre de Cadouin, a decent drive away. Here the good mood continued when the receptionist, who enjoyed here three months in UCC improving her English, presented us with a smashing bottle of Bergerac Molleaux (from the Caves de Monbazillac) as a reward for being persistent tourists.
We had clocked up four visits to such sites and so earned the wine. As it was, we had visited almost twice that number but didn’t realise that such a scheme was in force until well into our holiday.
The complex boasts a fine church but is it the 15^th century cloisters in the Flamboyant Gothic Style, and sponsored by Louis X1, that are the highlight here. Fine doors at the four corners, the abbot’s throne and the restored chapterhouse are the features, though there are many more. A short but quite impressive visit.
We weren’t too far from Limeuil so we headed there for lunch, to the bar brasserie A L’Ancre de Salut (05 53 63 39 29) that we had visited earlier. They were very busy but we got a table where I enjoyed a Galette Complet (more or less a sturdy crepe with fried egg, ham and cheese). A fine plateful for €8.50. A 25 cl jug of Bergerac Rose, a delightful drink on the hot day, cost €3.50.
Then walked over the two nearby bridges, one over the Dordogne and one, its last, over the Vezere. This is the meeting of the waters and two now flow as the Dordogne. Under the trees, close to the restaurant, there are quite a few tables and here small groups were enjoying a do it yourself meal or just a rest from the hot sun.
Drove up then to the nearby Cave of the Vins de Perigord producers only to find it closed. This was a very warm day so we drove back to the gite and a welcome dip in the pool.
But not before a needed call to the neighbouring Casino Supermarket. Here we picked up a pack of lamb chops (about 7) for €7.15, some freshly made ratatouille from the deli counter, also some prawns (with Provencal sauce), fresh strawberries and a pair of millefeuillie, all for tonight’s barbecued meal.
Enjoyed the meal and also the wine: a Montagne Saint-Emilion, a Grand Vin de Bordeaux, which cost us €6.99. This is apparently a wine from a Bordeaux satellite but if I’m on the last spaceship out of here, I’ll be happy to stock it up with this one.

· A tip. Some French restaurants, particularly in tourist areas, are spread across a road. You will usually find that the tables across the road from the main building are for drinks only.

DORDOGNE WEEK 2

2010-05-23T21:40:00.012+01:00

DAY 8
For more eating out in the Dordogne see http://corkfood.blogspot.com/

WEEK 2, DAY 8

This is planned as an easy day: marche, pool, lunch at gite, visit wine merchants nearby, dinner at gite (barbecue), Champions League final.

The Saturday market in Sarlat is huge: food, crafts, clothes, footwear.... two streets and connecting lanes, plus a square, all full of stalls and people. We meet some very nice people: a young man that helps us choose melons for today, tomorrow and Monday; another young man in a shop where we get “strings” for my glasses and quite a few others, including a lady in a Tabac who doesn’t charge for a box of matches (for the barbecue).

We did pick up a souvenir or two but it was mainly food: strawberries (from a choice of three varieties), a pain complet, melons, mussels, and a couple of gorgeous pastries. Also spotted a traiteur with potential and we’ll be calling there after the weekend.

Back to the gite then for a dip in the pool followed by a lunch of mussels (we bought too many of them) followed by some of that bread with a local cows cheese.

Valette Foie Gras, 16 avenue Aristide Briand, 24200 Sarlat, 05 53 30 25 63.

Early in the afternoon found some handy shops within a few hundred yards of the gite, including a Lidl where German Pilsner was on sale for less than €3.00 for six 50cl bottles. Next door was a butcher with a huge selection and also a variety of readymade meals.

The gem though was Valette Foie Gras which, in addition to a massive selection of Foie Gras and related products, including chutneys and Cassoulets, has quite a range of local wines. I took the opportunity to make some progress on my list:

Madiran Cuvee de L’Ange 2005 €5.75;

Saussignac Chateau Tourmentine 50cl €13.30;

Cahors St Didier Parnac Prestige 2006 €6.00;

Pecharmant Chateau Tiregand 2007 €9.90;

Montravel Blanc Sec 2007 €6.70;

And, for this evening’s barbie, a Bergerac Blanc Sec Chateau Theulet 2008, €5.30.

Got their brochure on the way out, studying it at present and we’ll be calling there again.

By the way, that Bergerac Blanc went very well with the barbie and later still the introduction of a previously purchased Jurancon (Moelleux) went down very well with the dessert. It is a lovely medium sweet wine from the Basque country, also recommended as an aperitif or with the local foie gras and certain cheeses. Certainly, worth a look.

DAY 9

Photos: above pig roast, right band plays, below contestant trys to ring goose and bottom local dialect (umbrellas)

Walked in to the centre of Sarlat around noon today. They were getting ready for the start of La Ringueta, Fete des Jeux Traditionnels: all kinds of games, climbing greasy poles, a type of table football played with wooden “hitters” and a round piece of timber as the ball, spinning tops and many more.

Pigs were roasting on the huge barbecues, to become part of a 13 euro meal. But we didn’t wait, headed for L’Orangerie in the shade of hits huge “awning” to take their 14 euro four course menu. With duck confit for the main course, we had an enjoyable meal and headed back to the fun and games which were starting officially at two o’clock.

The crowds were now well up, all fed, and the fun had started. We enjoyed walking around and looking at all the pre-computer activities and we especially enjoyed the lively efforts of a noisy band that didn’t confine themselves to the one spot but moved through the length of the fete.

Later, in the afternoon we headed back to the gite to take a break and cool down in the pool. Later, we enjoyed a pork chop barbecue

DAY 10

Chateau de Monbazillac

24240 Monbazillac

www.chateau-monbazillac.com

05 53 61 52 52 and 05 53 63 65 00

An afternoon visit to the Chateau de Monbazillac was the highlight today.

Photos from top: the Chateau, Monbazzilac vineyards with Bergerac in background and bottles of the golden nectar at rest.

But first, some housework: rubbish to be taken to the communal collection point a few yards up the road and then all the empty bottles to be deposited in the “banks” at the nearby Casino Supermarket.

Today being a bank holiday, not on the usual calendars, many places were closed but Casino was opened and I took the opportunity to add to our collection by purchasing a Chateau Larroque Bordeaux Sec 2009, a Chateau Peyrettaille Pecharmant 2007 and also a Chateau Menate Sauternes 2005.

From one sweet wine to another as we arrived at the Chateau de Monbazillac after a 70 km trip. Built around 1550, the chateau stands today almost exactly as when built by the AYDIE family more than four centuries ago. This was a very interesting visit indeed, highlights including the Grand Salon, the Mouney-Sully Hall, the Grand Staircase and the Hall of Bottles.

The world renowned vineyard was first cultivated in the 11^th century and is famous for using “the noble rot” method to make its sweet wines which draw thousands of visitors every year. We availed of the tasting service, naturally, and purchased some of the golden nectar along with some Bergerac Rouge and Bergerac Sec.

“In entering this place, you are entering a part of the History of France”. So says one of the chateau’s leaflets. Today, the Wine Cooperative of Monbazillac owns the chateau and makes every effort to look after the monument and open it as much as possible to visitors. For €6.40, we thought it was very good value indeed.

DAY 11 Gouffre de Padirac, Rocamadour

Photos: Three views of Rocamadour and one of the hole in the ground by which you enter Padirac.

Gouffre de Padirac is one of the most visited places in France and takes your breath away. Via stairs and lifts, you descend almost 1000 feet before being taken on a boat trip through the magnificent galleries of this chasm.

Here you see the “Great Pendant” a 60 metre stalactite. After the boat, a circular tour, that includes some 84 steps, takes you into and around the “Great Dome Room”. This is 94 metres high and here you see gorgeous lakes and more odd shapes of nature, including groups of beautiful stalagmites.

The visit costs about €9.20 for an adult and takes about ninety minutes. There is plenty of car parking in the area and also a share of restaurants which seem a euro or two dearer than elsewhere, maybe dearer even than those on the outskirts of the attraction.

It was in the middle of lunch time when we emerged and we sat down at the close at hand Restaurant Les Visiteurs where we each enjoyed Moules Frites (€11.50) and a Breton cider (€3.20). A thunderclap went off in the distance but the sun stayed shining in the area.

And it was still shining as we reached L’Hospitalet, the hamlet from which there is a great view, many say the best, of the medieval town, on three levels, of Rocamadour. The Chateau is on top, then the religious area and at the bottom, the housing of the workers, nowadays used as souvenir shops and artists’ workshops.

The Bunch of chapels that make up the middle area is quite impressive. Among others, we visited Chapelle Notre-Dame where, on the altar, sits the statue of the miraculous Black Virgin and Child.

It is tough on the legs around here but you may get refreshments along the way and some restaurants and bars have terraces overlooking the valley. Life is also made easier by the lifts that link the middle area with the bottom (€3.00 return) and with the Chateau.

Quite a tiring day! Now to hit Sarlat and see what the restaurants are serving. Most in the medieval centre are serving traditional fare – for the sake of variety we’ll have to get out of town one of these nights. In the end, settle for the Auberge Lys Or in place Andre Malruax (06 87 30 37 07).

From the 14 euro menu, we start with two salads, one a Maigret de Canard, and the other smoked salmon with a lemon sauce. Both okay, nothing special. Main course were Coq au Vin (house style) and Bavette de Boeuf with shallots. Again, each was fine without being outstanding (after all, this is the 14 euro menu).

Dessert was probably the best we’ve come across in this category menu. It was a lovely fresh fruit salad, mainly exotic fruits. A pichet (50cl) of Bordeaux rouge and an Espresso bought the total bill to €38.50.

DAY 12 Chateau Milandes

24250 Castelnaud-la-Chapelle

05 53 59 31 21

www.milandes.com

After a thunderstorm last night and the exertions of yesterday, a short trip was called for and, after lunch, we headed for Chateau des Milandes, the former residence of song and dance star Josephine Baker who died suddenly in 1975 during the run of a show celebrating her fifty years in show biz.

The American was a huge success sin Paris for much of the first half of the 20^th century but never forgot her American roots and the discrimination against her fellow African Americans. She sacrificed contracts in the fight which saw her famously march in Washington in August 1963 with Dr Martin Luther King. Already she had made the Chateau a home for 10 boys and 2 girls of different nationalities.

The rooms in the Chateau, including her bedroom and bathroom, are among those on the tour and, in the Grand Salon, you see many of her famous costumes, also many photos and original drawings of her in the Folie Bergere.

A popular part of any visit to Milandes is the Birds of Prey Display under the charge of falconers Patrick and Steve. Birds put through their paces include a Kestrel Falcon, a Harris Hawk, a Barn Owl, an eagle owl, a falcons and an American fish eagle. Don’t miss the show, usually on twice in the afternoons, not always in the mornings.

No visit to France is complete without a call to Leclerc and no visit to a branch of that supermarket chain is complete without a call to the wine corner. Further filled my shopping list by adding a Bergerac Moelluex, a few bottles of Buzet, some Fronsac, one Fronton (by error, maybe a happy one) and finally a bottle of Banyul, the sweet fortified wine, like port, from the deep south.

The morning visit to the market, where purchases included a big lump of delicious Tomme de Perigord, a lovely cows cheese, ended with a call to a branch of the Valette chain where a purchase of Sarlanoix (liquor) ticked another box. Primary use is as an aperitif but we tend to use it with barbecued banana. Do your banana, quickly lay it on a layer of ice-cream and quickly add a tablespoon or two of Sarlanoix and then quickly eat it!

DAY 13 CAHORS VINEYARDS

Today made the trip down to the Cahors Vineyards. Started by visiting a couple of sleepy villages. In the bastide town of Montcabrier, pigeons cooed while children babbled contentedly in the school. More sounds of contentment in Duravel where the local café was doing quite a lunch-time trade.

Then onto the River Lot and the quayside of Puy-L’Eveque, once a river port. Fine views here of the river and the old town and vineyards in the near distance. Views kept getting better. High up in Belaye, we had stunning views of both the Lot and Cahors Valley.

And even that was outdone when we called to nearby Albas which overlooks the Lot from a cliff. A few kilometres outside the town we got a magnificent view as the river formed a huge shape in the valley below.

Then passed through the ancient Cathar fiefdom of Luzech and its imposing 12^th century keep before getting down to business in the little village of Parnac. Here the Cave Cooperative du Vignoble de Cahors (you see Les Cotes d’Olt on the signs) have a massive cave with a fine shop.

After a few tastings we settled on a Château Les Bouysses 2002 (€7.40 a bottle) and a Cotes D’OIt Malbec 2005 (€4.00), some rewards for a hard slog in the car. As was an excellent dinner of Poulet Basque from the local traiteur, something of a welcome change from the local cuisine to which, let me hasten to add, we’ll return.

DAY 14 LA ROQUE ST CHRISTOPHE

La Roque Saint Christophe, 24620 Peyzac Le Moustier

05 53 50 70 45

www.roque-st-christophe.com

“The guide is in Irish”, joked the receptionist as he handed us a returnable trail leaflet as we entered La Roque St Christophe, a must visit site if you are in this area. This sheer rock face, some five terraces high, has been inhabited since prehistoric times.

It was such a secure place, above the Vezere river, that man made it a troglodytic fort in the 10^th century and that these early efforts were added to throughout the middle ages when the fort, really by then a high rise town, often held as many as 1000 people.

A little reconstruction has taken place and one can easily imagine how the medieval town worked, how it continued to supply itself – full size working models of big lifting machines have been constructed here - and how it defended itself against attackers. A marvellous and worthwhile experience.

Not too far away, hidden in a wood and also on the bank of Vezere, is the La Madeleine site. Findings here were and are of such an importance to the understanding of the Upper Palaeolithic period that the Magdalenian culture forms part of such studies.

Physically, the site is not as impressive as Christophe but the collection of underground rock shelters, where remains of a chapel, walls and shelters and workshops are visible, and the site above the Vezere, all combine to give one a feeling how life was lived here for century after century. Many of the ancient buildings outlived the castle that was built above them.

Next visit was to a much more modern establishment, for dinner. We had been recommended Le Bar Code, just outside Sarlat on the Josephine Baker Road. Newly opened on this site, it had brought with it from its former Sarlat centre site, a reputation for Meat on the Rock, rather appropriate given the day that was in it.

At present, it opens for lunch every day but for dinner only on Fridays and Saturdays. Our first courses were Charcuterie (€6.00) for me and Salad with Gizzards (€4.00) for herself. Both were substantial and it took us a while to polish them off.

They were big but nothing prepared us for the size of the main course. Both of us had chosen Beef on the Rock. The hot rocks were served smoking, the beef sizzling, all accompanied by a salad and chips and a couple of dips. All you had to do then was “cook” the beef to your taste: rare, medium or well done!

The size of the piece of meat was astonishing. In each case it was at least three times the size of the normal fillet steak served in Cork! All for 15 euro.

A good while later, we were asked, with no real expectation of an affirmative answer, if we wanted dessert. We just said we'd stick with the wine and finish it off, a very enjoyable Bergerac rouge which cost us €10.00 for the bottle.

Full. You could say that. Tel: 05 53 28 56 14. C.C. Pre de Cordy (face au lycee) 24200 Sarlat.

Pics. Model of La Roque (top) and then Church at La Madeleine

DORDOGNE WEEK 1

2010-05-18T15:58:00.014+01:00

DAY 1 - see http://corkfood.blogspot.com/

DAY 2

DAY 2

The 800 plus kilometre drive, including stops, from Roscoff to Sarlat in the Dordogne took from 08.05 until 18.05. Sunday traffic was unexpectedly busy – there may have been a mid-term break in some departments but generally the trip, virtually all on motorway – Roscoff to Rennes to Nantes to Bordeaux and to Sarlat via Perigeux- was fortunately trouble free.

The dual carriage way section between Morlaix and Rennes has very few stops and none decent until the Pays de Rennes effort, after about 160 kms. We found it well stocked: two sandwiches and two drinks cost €9.80. Hot coffee was also available from a dispenser. Staff was helpful and friendly.

The section from Rennes to Nantes is pretty well covered with decent rest areas and it gets better when you hit the auto-route between Nantes and Bordeaux. We make a stop regularly at the Aire de La Vendee. We rate this very highly as it has a huge range of facilities including food supply and decent toilets also baby changing. But it was packed on this occasion; we stretched our legs (one of the reasons why you stop at all) and drove on.

The next big Aire (rest-area), about 30 kms on, has Leclerc pumps and shop and is, in fairness, more or less on a par with the Vendee stop. Again, you get your petrol, food and toilet facilities along with a small cafe.

On the run to Perigeux, we found a fine Aire not too far outside of Bordeaux. Again, they had everything you need while on the move. By the way, on a busy day, all our stops moved the customers efficiently and all had friendly and helpful staff.

DAY 3 seehttp://corkfood.blogspot.com/

DAY 4

La Roque Gageac – Domme-Sarlat

Gabarres Caminade

05 53 29 40 95

www.gabarrecaminade.com

La Roque Gageac, with the river Dordogne at its pretty feet and the rocks towering over it, is one of the most unusual villages in France. Some of the houses have rooms built into the rock and there is also a troglodytic fort high up the rocks.

Despite the narrowness of the town, they find room for parking. Just as well, as it is a popular starting point for trips on the gabarres, the old-type river boats that ferry visitors up and down the river. We did a short trip on a Caminade boat and the cost up to the bridge under Castelnaud and return was €8.50.

It was an excellent hour’s excursion. While there was a live French commentary we were given English audio guides which worked very well and were informative. The sun came out and we saw some spectacular sights, including Castelnaud high up on the hill. No wonder a returning French visitor gave it a “formidable” rating.

Domme is one of many fortified towns in this part of France. The walls of the Porte des Tours, one of the gates through the fortifications are marked with graffiti made by the Knights Templar. Impressive buildings, many from the 15^th and 16^th century may be seen here but our main reason for breaching the walls and trying to find parking was so that we could take in the view.

The Dordogne is lazy here and there is a great big curve just below the walls of Domme before it starts flowing in earnest on its way to La Roque Gageac. From the ramparts, you have terrific views over the river, to the left and right, and to the fertile land in between where one f the popular crops is walnut trees. Domme is well worth a detour.

Restaurant L’Orangerie

3 rue Alberic Cahuet

24200 Sarlat

05 53 31 88 03 orangie2009@hotmail.fr

After the previous evening’s stuffing at Mirandol, we didn’t want Foie Gras again. But both it a confit de canard are hard to avoid in this town. L’Orangerie promised something of a change so we took a table in the open air.

Starters were six Escargots (with garlic) pour moi and Chicken Gizzards and Liver with a salad for the Advisor. Both of us were very pleased as this €14.00 four course menu kicked off.

Both of us choose the Breast of Duck with Sarlat potatoes and small herbie mash and with a honey and orange sauce. Really classy meal served in the open air of this medieval quarter.

The cheese was once again the Rocamadour goats cheese and a little green salad with some little pieces of walnuts. Quite enjoyable but this too seems to pop up on all the menus. Desserts were a lemon tart for herself and walnut tart for me with custard. Both were quiet enjoyable.

They had a decent wine list and we picked a 50 cl carafe f local Bergerac rouge which cost €8.50. Total bill therefore came to €36.50!

Photos from top: Sarlat meal, La Roque Gageac and Domme

DAY 5

SARLAT MARKET

Got our first taste of the twice weekly Sarlat Market this morning. It was busy, tourists mixing with the locals in the medieval quarter.

We enjoyed our own tour, buying some fish (Julienne) and also a Salmon Pizza from the same stall. Also bought some vegetables and fruit and sampled a few bits and pieces before walking over to the “main” street to call to a mini-market where we got some olive oil for cooking. Of course, we couldn’t resist passing a patisserie where we helped ourselves to a couple of strawberry tartlets.

Lunch at the Gite consisted mainly of cheese and beautiful tomatoes before we made the short trip to the “hanging Gardens of Marqueyssac” overlooking the Dordogne and La Roque Gageac.

Info: Jardins de Marqueyssac, 24220 Vezac. Tel: 05 53 31 36 36; www.marqueyssac.com.

After extensive restoration work, Marqueyssac was opened to the public in 1997 and is now the most visited garden in Perigord. A “folly of clipped boxwoods” is the main feature of the place along with excellent views over the Dordogne. There is an easy (high heels and buggies) and a more difficult path around the “overhanging gardens”.

The main viewing point is the Belvedere, some 800 metres from the chateau. It affords an exceptional panoramic view of the river and surroundings. The amazing topiary, along with the stunning views, which include nearby castles, make it well worth the €7.30 entrance fee. The visit will take you about ninety minutes, maybe more if you want to linger for a snack and a visit the shop.

Stayed in for dinner this evening. Starter: Melon. Main Course: Julienne (a white fish like hake) served with a salad. Dessert: Strawberry tartlets with fresh strawberries. Wine: Gaillac, from some of the oldest vineyards (quite close to Sarlat) in France. Our dry white, ideal for fish, is made from unusual grapes: Mauzac and Loin de l’Oeil and has 11.5 per cent alcohol. The region also produces reds, roses and sparkling whites. We were very happy indeed with our white.
Photos from top: Sarlat Market, view of La Roque Gageac from Marqueyssac and topiary in Marqueyssac

DAY 6
Les Combarelles-Limeuil-Tremolat-Gite
Photos, from top: Meeting of Dordogne and Vezere; in Limeuil; Cingle de Tremolat; Les Combarelles and A L’Ancre de Salut

The Dordogne is so full of caves, you could spend your whole holiday underground. We made a quick visit this morning to Les Combarelles, discovered in 1901. One of two galleries, 140 meters long, is open to the public and contains engravings, sometimes drawings of animals such as horse, reindeer, and ibex mammoths. Quite impressive, considering that they were created some 13,000 years ago.

On then to the Vitrolle, site of the vineyard of Vin de Pays de Perigord. Unfortunately, it won’t be open ‘til the afternoon. Fortunately, our host at the gite has already introduced us to this red wine made from a blend of several grapes, as is usual here, including merlot. Our host, by the way, has strong opinions on wine labelling and is not at all impressed with those who buy by the grape variety alone.

“Some wines here are made with up to nine grapes. How are you going to get all those onto the label? If you are to put anything like that on the label then it should be the maker as he has the most influence.”

Just about a kilometre form the vineyard, we come to the village of Limeuil, one of the most beautiful villages of France, officially. It is an ancient village; the gateway we passed through is from the 14^th century. Just inside is the tourist office where we called and picked an English language guide.

We made good use of it as we strolled around the sunlit streets. These are very narrow and our host had cautioned against driving into the upper part of the town. Good advice indeed. In any case, you see more as you walk and we certainly enjoyed our twenty five minutes of so.

Back down then to the river or rivers to be more exact. Limeuil is the place where the waters of the Dordogne and Vezere meet and, with their bridges at right angles, it is a pretty spot.

Overlooking the picturesque junction of the two rivers there is a bar brasserie called A L’Ancre de Salut (05 53 63 39 29). It has an upper terrace alongside the building itself and a lower one across the road, right on the river bank. Both are nice, each with a shaded portion.

We had a Salade de Pay (€9.00) and a beer each. The well made salad, don’t think I’ve ever had a poor one in France, was quite filling and the whole lot was just what the doctor ordered. Excellent place and very friendly staff indeed. Parking for the town is very close to the restaurant.

Then we headed for the Cingle de Tremolat, a little further to the west. After driving uphill for a short while you come to the viewing point over a huge area of the Dordogne river. This massive meander come towards you on the left, straightens out for a while in front of you and then heads off to the sea on your right. You can also see the farmers at work in the fields below and some of the chateaux. Well worth a detour.

After that it was back to the gite. With the temperature rising all the time – today’s was 26 degrees – we took a chance in the pool and had a refreshing if rather fast dip. Should be better tomorrow.

Dinner this evening is DIY, starting with melon. Main course is a Salmon Pizza bought from a market fishmonger. Pizza is almost a misnomer as this is some dish. A layer of salmon on top of a generous ratatouille like bedding with an layer of excellent pizza underneath. The cheese course (when in Rome...) is followed by cherries. And all washed down with a modest Bergerac rouge, a gift from our host.

DAY 7

D’eyrignac-Souilliac-Pool-Sarlat

Les Jardins du Manoir D’Eyrignac are highly recommended in virtually all the guides for the Dordogne. Cost us €9.50 each to enter and we were suitably impressed as were the Michelin people who awarded it 2 stars.

The gardens are mainly architectural, a masterpiece of symmetry, with many surprising vistas for the strolling visitors. Water is also used to good effect here and it is a really impressive tour.

Now, for a tip. The main green garden has been supplemented by what is called a white garden, that is a garden, again with architecture planting and topiary and water fountains and the white comes from flowers, mainly from roses. These roses though don’t come into anything approaching full bloom until the end of May so, if you delay your trip until then, it will be well worthwhile.

Restaurant Cote Jardin

Sarl Des Charmes, 24590 Eyricnac

05 53 30 22 56

If you are in the Eyricnac area, perhaps having just visited the gardens, and are looking for lunch then the Cote Jardin is just at hand.

We stopped there today and ordered a Salade Paysanne (€9.00) each, also a Stella Artois and a bottle Breton cider (€2.50 each for 25 cls). The Salad was a mountain! Loads of lettuce, lardons, crutons, walnuts, hard-boiled egg, tomatoes and tasty melon. The crutons weren’t great but overall it was a fine feed with good service despite a big crowd being in.

Eglise Sainte Martin (Soulliac)

In the ancient church of Sainte Martin in Souillac we visited an art exhibition. Just as well the 11^th/12^th century church was “desaffectee en 1829" as some of the art was rather racy. It was a mixture of photography, painting and sculpture. Pieces were reasonably priced but I didn’t see anything that I liked enough to purchase. Exhibitions continue throughout the summer here and the tourist office for this small and pleasant town is also located here.

Musee De L’automate

Europe’s largest “automata” exhibition is in the abbey of Souillac. It has some 300 pieces, mostly from the 19^th and 20^th century. Admission is six euro and is worth a visit particularly if you have kids in tow.

Our favourite was Charlie Chaplin, hanging onto a lamppost and cheekily trying to kick his way out of his glass cabinet. A jazz band in action and a man with an uncontrollable laugh also brought enjoyment.

Restaurant Auberge De Mirandol ....

Strolled up through Sarlat looking at the menus this evening and again concluded that Auberge de Mirandol was the place for us. All the others offer the standard local fare, foie gras and confit. Mirandol does as well but there are more choices on its set menus and we like the place and the people serving there.

We get a table on the margin of indoors and out and settle for the €13.50 menu. Started with Jambon de Pays with Salad, a tasty chew, perhaps a bit too chewy for some.

I enjoyed my main course of beautifully done Duck Breast with tasty local potatoes and green beans. The beans and potatoes also accompanied the other main dish, a terrific Coq au Vin (and yes there was loads of red wine in the sauce!).

Then followed the usual goats cheese course, Rocamadour with salad. Dessert was a modest lemon tart (slice) with cold custard and a crème brulee.

Water is usually from the tap and free in French restaurants though you may of course buy bottled water. Our wine was Mirandol’s Wine of the Month: Chateau Le Coustarelle, La Cassot, Cahors 2005, a terrific red for €14.00 per bottle.

Photos from the top: Sarlat evening, the white garden, St Martin's, massive salad and automat jazz band and twisting figure

WEEKEND IN WEST CORK 26-28 MARCH 2010

2010-03-29T15:13:00.000+01:00

GLANDORE UNION HALL SKIBBEREEN CASTLETOWNSEND LOUGH HYNE KNOCKOMAGH WOOD BALTIMORE BALLYDEHOB

For photos from this weekend trip, see

http://www.flickr.com/photos/corkbilly/sets/72157623726829032/ and http://www.flickr.com/photos/corkbilly/sets/72157623726758010/

For Hotel and restaurants see http://corkfood.blogspot.com/

BARCELONA 2006

2009-11-09T14:30:00.000Z

CORK PUBLIC PARKS

2009-11-05T16:02:00.000Z

ATLANTIC POND

Back in the good old days, middle of the last century, the Atlantic Pond, close to the main GAA stadium, was a handy destination for car-less families seeking relief from the heat of the city and many a picnic of sandwiches and tea was enjoyed on its green grassy banks.

The pond deteriorated after that but in recent years, the City Council have done much to restore it. The birds are back and enjoying life on the clean water and there are paths around the lake and besides you have the long walks on the Marina close at hand.

The birds aren’t quite as plentiful as they are in the Lough but today’s visit indicated that this pleasant spot is attracting families once again and quite a few walkers and runners.

for more info on Cork's public parks, some in city centre, check out my reviews at

http://www.qype.co.uk/mypage/reviews

THE LOUGH

The Lough (lake) has long been a favourite haunt of Cork strollers and I joined them today. The outer path must be close to a mile long and is favoured by joggers and others on reasonably serious exercise missions.

Many car loads of kids have been brought to the urban lake which has attracted a big variety of wild birds over the years, mainly swans and ducks. The kids and the adults love to feed the birds but, after a recent bout of disease, the City Council has notices up telling people not to feed the traditional bread, asking that the likes of lettuce and cabbage be provided instead.

The birds once again seem to be thriving and the Lough continues to draw the children of the city. Back in the middle of the previous century, it was a favourite spot to go skating in winter but global warming has put an end to that.

for more info on Cork's public parks, some in city centre, check out my reviews at
http://www.qype.co.uk/mypage/reviews

MAYO SEP 2009

2009-09-19T11:04:00.004+01:00

MAYO SEPTEMBER 2009

Where I stayed and ate go to: http://corkfood.blogspot.com/

My (admittedly dated) Michelin Green Guide for Ireland leaves the North West of Mayo blank! Nothing out there? Maybe the Michelin man missed out but you don't have to.

We drove out of Ballina the other morning and headed for Killala. The most noticeable thing about Killala is the absence of telephone and electricity poles. These services were put underground in the 80s when a period TV series (The Year of the French) was filmed there.

Then on to Ballycastle, heading for Belderrig. On that road, you can see some spectacular coastal scenery (top), including large cliffs, the best known of which is Downpatrick Head near Ballycastle.

The Ceidhe Fields (above right) gives you a tour of a prehistoric farm found in the bog (the first known cultivated fields in Europe). Very interesting. Just opposite the car park is a protected viewing point for the cliffs.

When you come to the small village of Belderrig, take a right turn in towards the pier. Not much activity there nowadays as the fishing is no longer profitable. Neither does it make sense to endure back-breaking work to extract peat from the bog (left) when you can get heating oil cheaper.

Old habits are dying. And maybe the community is going the same way. It doesn't look that way on the surface. If you take a trip along the side roads here, you will see some substantial houses, some new ones and some renovated. The place looks well but most of these are summer homes for former residents or their descendants. There are no young people left. Indeed no children there now. The national school closed last June when the final three pupils graduated and headed for the secondary school at Lacken Cross, a stepping stone away from the area.

Back then to Belmullet and Blacksod Bay. The Mullet peninsula is worth a trip. On the way back we made a detour at Barnatra, taking the coast road via Inver and Pollathomais (below) and then back to the main road.

Autumn colours, including the red heather, made for a picturesque view on the bogs, the streams and the mountains (where the sunshine and shadows played hide and seek). All lovely for the visitor but it doesn’t put bread on the table for the locals.

Our other day in the West saw us take the road from Ballina over towards Bangor in Erris and then down to Achill Island. You could spend a day discovering the scenery (below) on the island but, if you are short of time, then do the well signposted Atlantic Drive. It is a short but spectacular trip, lovely on a good day but even more exciting when the winds blows and the rain lashes in!

Where I stayed and ate go to: http://corkfood.blogspot.com/

To further fill that blank in the Michelin guide you could go to http://www.mayo-ireland.ie/Mayo/Tourism which will give you details on many sites including: Ballintubber Abbey, Ballintubber, Claremorris; Céide Fields Visitor Centre, Ballycastle, County Mayo; Clew Bay Heritage Centre, The Quay, Westport; Teach Na Miosa, Croagh Patrick, Westport; Belcarra Eviction Cottage, Belcarra, Castlebar; Fr. Peyton Memorial Centre, Attymass, Ballina; Foxford Woollen Mills, Foxford; Ionad Deirbhile Heritage Centre , Eachleim, Blacksod; Kiltimagh Museum, Old Railway Station, Kiltimagh; Knock Folk Museum, Knock Shrine Grounds, Knock; Mayo Abbey, Mayo Abbey Village, Claremorris; Mayo North Heritage Centre, Enniscoe, Ballina; Michael Davitt Museum, Straide; Partry House, Partry.

Nevin Mountain and Lough Cullin above.

Where I stayed and ate go to: http://corkfood.blogspot.com/

FRANCE 09 PART 4

2009-07-06T16:17:00.014+01:00

The Pomerol Gite and Thezac Sunflowers

Royan beach (above) and Meschers Sunset (opposite Talmont)

Beach at St Georges

Ferry leaves Royan for Pnte du Grave

SATURDAY JUNE 27 09
Three parts to this day, starting with trip to beach at St Georges for a swim in the sea, a walk and a rest on the beach.
Part two was back at the gite. Lunch consisted of a salad and a beer; that was followed by a dip in the pool and a spell to read and relax.
Five in the afternoon, we hit the road to Royan and walked across the main sea front to take a look at a couple of smaller beaches on the western side. Then back to the town for a light meal in Chez Meme, one of a string of sea front eateries. A couple of pizzas (9+9.5), 50cl of wine (5.50), two desserts (5.50 & 6.50) filled the belly. Service was excellent and friendly and the food wasn’t bad either! Sun still belting down strongly as we reach the gite at close to 9.00pm.

SIZZLE SUNDAY 28 JUNE 09
Hot today, somewhere in the high 30s here (later, we get confirmation that it reached over 40). First call is to the market at Saintes. Buy mussels for lunch and also fresh cod for dinner.
After lunch head to nearby Pisany for a Brocante Fair. It is the 25th such event but the stalls, though many, are small and the quality poor and we leave after half hour or so. We had come across one of these in this area a few years back and really enjoyed it. But there was to be no repeat this time.
Heat (40 degrees plus) is getting to us and, aside from a couple of dips in the pool and the odd short spell in the sun , we spend much of the second part of the afternoon in the cool of the gite.
Read quite a bit today of The Client by John Grisham, a thriller. It is not too bad, much better than the two thrillers I read earlier on this trip: The Blue Zone (by Andrew Gross ) and the dire Final Detail (by Harlan Coben).
Looking forward now to the cod with tomatoes and also to the Confederations Cup final from South Africa between Brazil and the USA. - Both turned out to be very enjoyable!!

SIZZLE MONDAY 29 JUNE 09
Another easy day in the hot sun. After breakfast headed off to St Georges for a spell on the beach. Bought a few bits in the town and back to the gite for lunch. Later checked the sales in Saintes but the big department store had no air-con. Headed outside for an ice cream and later a drink at a bar before driving back to base and a read and a dip or two in the pool.

TUESDAY 30 JUNE 09
The heat wave continues: more beach and pool, generally taking it easy, though made final trip to local vineyard to stock up. Sunflowers are now blooming.

Surprised to find La Foret closed on this Tuesday evening; headed down to Talmont to La Promontoire but that too was closed. Lesson: check before you go, as many restaurants close for both Monday and Tuesday, others for just one of those days.
La Kaz, another establishment in Talmont, was open; we got a table there and soon the place was packed, putting pressure on the two serving, though our flamboyant fellow didn’t show it. They did their best but service was slow. Nothing great on the menu here so settled for a lovely pizza (11.50). Also enjoyed my dessert of Poire belle Helene and the wine which cost €5 for a 50cl carafe.
People were expecting a thunderstorm and there was a little nervousness when one or two of the sheltering sunshades began to rattle in the wind. But nothing, only a few heavy drops, followed and there was a beautiful sunset on sea and cornfields as we drove inland to the gite.

WEDNESDAY 01 JULY 09
Change of month but no change in the weather, temperatures still in the high 30s, pool temperature at 28 in morning. Mainly the same course of action: read, pool, beach, pool. Tough going.
Still enough action to work up an appetite and the best place to satisfy that in these parts is La Foret. Have myself a Pineau Rose aperitif while studying the huge menu. We settle for the Medallions de Merlu (hake), cooked in a court bouillon, and served with various vegetables, including tomatoes, the plate further enhanced with four or five split (large) prawns. This dish cost €24.00 and was worth every penny.
Desserts were described on the bill as Tarte Au Citron and Tiramisu but, believe me, were much more than that. Both were gorgeous though I think the Advisor’s Tarte was the better choice. Finished off with an espresso (1.80, much cheaper than the 3.50 Jacques outrageously charge).
A good end to a good day.

THURSDAY 2nd JULY 09
The expected thunderstorms hit the area in the early hours of this morning; we weren’t really in the bird’s eye bit but the thunder rumbled on for a while. The morning was cloudy but soon the temperatures rose again and this day followed much the same pattern as recently: beach, stroll, ice cream and back to pool.
Last night in France for this trip so we head off to Le Cottage to support the Irish-French couple that run it. While waiting, we are served with a lovely smoked salmon mousse which goes well with the brown bread. The main course for me is local lamb with seasonal vegetables; done to a T, easy to eat as was the advisor's filet of beef. Dessert was deliceux de fraises, also gorgeous.

FRIDAY 3 JULY 09
ON ROAD & SEA
Close on 600 km to Roscof, so we pump the tyres to support the wine haul and also make a few stops on the motorway. One of the best is Aire de Vendee. I got a triple chicken sandwich here (3 slices of ordinary bread), a bottle of Coca Cola and a dessert yoghurt (with spoon and serviette) for 5.90.
Bits and pieces of fruit, travel sweets, more coke, kept us going. We didn't need much by the time we boarded which was a pity as le Flora was open! But we tried the self service. They had a range of hot dishes for around the 8 euro mark, also loads of salads, desserts, drinks etc.

Two Canneloni, two desserts, plus two small bottles (25 cl) of wine cost €27.65. The food was adequate (nothing special) but overall the value was decent.

But some more wine, mainly from the Languedoc on board. It is a smooth crossing and we arrive back in Cork bang on schedule at 10.30am Saturday.

OUR BASE

In the village of Thezac (Charente, France), the 11th century church towers over the houses and the surrounding cornfields and vineyards and the bells ring out the hour (though not by night). When the house lights go out, it is dark.

Pigeons coo (and coo), birds of prey glide and dive, rabbits run in the garden (until the cat catches one), hares are regularly seen and there are deer in the vicinity.

The friendly and courteous people rise early and work hard in the vineyards, the cornfields, the fields of sun flowers and maize and in their vegetable gardens. The village has no shops but just over 3 kms away in Pisany you’ll find a small supermarket and a baker.

Thezac is in the middle of nowhere but close to many attractive places such as Saintes, Royan, Talmont and Mornac (two of the prettiest villages in France – official), the beaches, and the motorway if you want to go further (Bordeaux, for example).

Ken and Nicky Roberts (kgrob@aol.com) have worked hard to restore the farm buildings of Au Milieu Des Vignes over the last six years or so and the completed project is a credit to them.

Three gites stand together (each with its private terrace c/w with barbecue and sun loungers) and a fine sized swimming poor (a bonus in hot weather) is shared, as is a large garden. The thickness of the walls of the converted barns means that the gites are cool inside, another bonus when temperatures rise.

The gites are marketed as romantic hideaways for couples (no kids, no pets) and that is exactly what they are. When you have enough of the holiday hustle in Royan, enough of the beaches, enough of driving, you can quickly retreat to Thezac, a dip in the pool and let the world go away.

kgrob@aol.com

FRANCE 09 PART 3

2009-06-27T12:56:00.004+01:00

La Rochelle Aquarium: Lemon Puffer (top) and Hawaian Double

Evening on St Georges beach, fish for auction at la Cotiniere and Chassiron Lightouse

SUNDAY 21 JUNE 09
Father’s Day began with death on the lawn of the gite as the visiting cat made an early morning kill. A surviving rabbit raced from bush to bush to safety.
Bonne Fete Papa! Decided we’d make this a lazy day. Drove to La Palmyre for the market with a promise (kept) not to buy food. Bought a few odds and ends and one or two presents for the grandchildren.
Spent most of the afternoon reading (in the sun) A Thousand Splendid Suns. It s a good book and if you like it why not try Wasted Vigil. The pool was also visited.
Then came the Clafoutis clanger. At the end of our barbecue, brochettes of beef from the Marche, we went to the fridge for the dessert. Noticed it on Saturday at the traiteur. It was marked Clafoutis, looked like it through the glass and we order two inside, and received it boxed. But at the end of the meal, this Clafoutis was not the regular fruity one. Instead, it was savoury dish with tomatoes studded around . Is there more than one Clafoutis out there?

MONDAY 22 JUNE 09
Today was a very interesting history stroll though nearby Saintes, beginning in the Roman arena. We paid a few euro extra for the audio guides and it was a brilliant investment. We made full use of them as we strolled though the ancient stadium, once used for the entertainment of the public, bread and circuses: animal chases and gladiator versus gladiator. This arena, one of the oldest, could hold close to 20,000 and the remains plus the audio meant you could easily picture the scene as the crowd gathered and the fighters entered.
It was hot in the amphitheatre but much cooler at the nearby Roman crypt of St Eutrope, part of the church named after this early bishop. After that we walked back to the town and sat at the nearest cafe, Cafe Des Arenes, where we had a three course lunch for the princely sum of €10.50: brochette of beef with salad and frites, dessert and coffee.
We were parked across the road but left the car there and walked down the town, over the river to Arc Germanicus and up the street to Abbaye aux Dames, the abbey of the women. This convent, first consecrated in the 11th century, turned out to be a highlight of our trip, once we found the office which is rather hidden away.
Again, we paid a few euro extra for the audio guides and the rewards were rich as we strolled at our own pace, through the exterior, then through the church, then the medieval gardens and then back to the convent, taking it all it in before climbing up to the belfry from where we enjoyed fantastic views over the town, especially up towards St Eutrope and St Peter’s (the other main church in Saintes).
Well satisfied with our day out, we made the short trip back to the gite for a dip in the pool and a barbecue.

TUESDAY 23 JUNE 09
This was an easy day. Late start, followed by a trip to the nearby vineyard and the sales cabin of Madame Masse to replenish supplies and than a short walk through the countryside adjacent to the gite.
After a quick lunch, headed to Royan and walked along by the main beach, the port and the next (smaller) beach. Then back towards the town centre for a look at the controversial Eglise Notre Dame. Built to resemble the prow of a ship, it looks severe on the outside. The inside looks more like a church but still the severity is maintained in the angular fittings, e.g. the baptismal font and the holy water fonts neat the entrance and in the statues scattered around. It is definitely 20th century in a town that was itself almost totally rebuilt in the 1950s having been destroyed in the later stages of the Second World War.
Many shops are closed as all seem to be preparing for sales tomorrow but we do manage to pick up a few presents before heading home to the pool.
Drive to Pisany, intending to have an evening meal at the local Auberge but find it doesn’t open until 7.30pm. Drive down to Acres then and have a lovely meal there from the €18.00 menu.
Aperitifs, cider and kir, cost a fiver and 50 cls of an impressive Sauvignon Blanc costs €5.00. Starter is a tomato brochette, main is Julienne (a fish similar to hake) served with rice, peppers and pureed pea, all followed by a desert of apple tart. Well worth it and we promise to go back next week.

WEDNESDAY 24 June 09
Summer sales break out in the area today but the highlight for us was a visit to the aquarium in La Rochelle. Open 365 days a year, it costs €13.00 to enter and is well worth it. Parking is fairly freely available close to the centre and we got ours (for free) in the Esplanade du Parcs, having failed to find a Park and Ride on the way in (which we used previously).
The parking was free and a pleasant walk through Place Verdun and then Rue de Palais took us to the port and its towers and it views out over the Atlantic. The Aquarium, well signposted is on the other side of the Vieux Port, a short walk away.
Creatures from all the oceans of the world, from tiny seahorses and colourful coral fish to the big grey sharks, can be seen here. Want to be young again? Pay the €13.00 and wonder. An excellent visit.
Back to the gite but the cupboard was bare so headed out to the generous plates of La Foret. Take this meal for value. A pave de Saumon au four (oven cooked darne of salmon), well garnished, and served with some tagiatelle (15.00), followed by Tarte Normande, apple and rhubarb (5.50), a half bottle of wine (3.00), and a coffee (1/80), total an incredible 25.80. Another worthwhile visit to a restaurant that is very popular with the French –didn’t see any other foreigners there!
THURSDAY 25 June 09
Lazy day. Very warm again. Gathered some food, bought some presents, in the morning, afternoon reading and in and out of the pool, quick trip to beach at St Geogres. Poulet Basque from the traiteur for dinner.

FRIDAY 26 JUNE 03
Weather uncertain as we headed for the island – Ile d’Oleron – this morning. But we need not have worried. As we reached the Viaduc, the sky was clearing. We headed for Le Chateau d’Oleron to watch the oyster farmers at work. Best viewed from the heights of the citadel – there you have a terrific view of the harbour and the estuary and the fleet of flat bottomed boats coming and going to the oyster beds.

Then up the coast to Boyardville and a little lunch – moules a la Italienne + frites, cost nine euro - at a little place near the main parking for the beach called L’ilot. On then to the tip of the island to see and climb the lighthouse, the 150 year old Chassiron.

Climbed the 224 steps no bother to enjoy great views, large over the sea in all directions and small to the foot of the building where a very nice garden (a new feature) has been laid out. Great value for just €2.50.
Back down the other side of the island to make a call to La Cotiniere where the fishermen land their catches and where the fish auctions take place. Saw some very big “meagre” delivered to the auction rooms.
Then back to the gite, the pool and the barbecue. It is now gone 8.30pm and the sun is still shining strongly on the back of the gite. C’est la vie!

FRANCE 09 Part 2

2009-06-21T17:22:00.004+01:00

MONDAY JUNE 15th – AT THE ZOO
Monday was supposed to be a big bad thundery day. There was rain overnight but the morning was fair, cloudy but dry. Went for walk in the nearby fields before lunch and then decided to visit the famous zoo of La Palmyre with its 1600 animals.
They stress the conditions and the care supplied to the animals but one can’t help feeling somewhat sorry for the likes of the giraffes and lions in their miserable enclosures. Still, the zoo stresses its valuable research work and the value of its breeding programmes and, after all, how is Joe Soap and the kids ever going to see such animals at close quarters unless at a zoo.
Entrance fee is €14,00 and turns out to be much better value than the €13.00 you pay to enter Fota though in some cases, particularly with the giraffes, the animals are better off on the Cork island (of which I am a supporter).
Still they have no high platform where you can rub noses with the giraffes, no fascinating show like that of Palmyre’s Californian sea lions and the parakeets. The African gorillas, in a relatively spacious compound, are another highlight as are the polar bears, especially if you catch them swimming underwater.
Loads of monkeys, tamarinds, chimps, also a reptile house and animals (including a bunch of very lively cheetahs) too numerous to mention. We spent about four hours there and would have gone round again but the time was up!
For more info see http://www.zoo-palmyre.fr/
TUESDAY JUNE 16th – GARDENS & BEACH
Temperatures are high again today as I drive for the breakfast croissants. Later head for Royan with double purpose: to see the Jardins du Monde and to restock on basics by calling to Leclerc.
Ten euro is the entrance fee to the gardens and they are just about worth it. If you have kids bring them as there is a large children’s area plus quite a few of the exhibits are also attractive to the young ones.
Highlights are the bonsai pavilion, the orchid and butterfly gardens and the 1800 year old tree that stands in the Tuscan garden.
The food on sale at Leclerc's is amazing. We ended up buying more food such as Stuffed Tomatoes and Moussaka from the Traiteur and a chunk of Tomme cheese but this time of the goat variety. Petrol is also much cheaper at the large supermarkets.
In the afternoon, headed down to Meschers sur Gironde for the Plages des Nonne. Very few on this beautiful beach which had a Mediterranean feel to it with the palms and white cliffs. But it was the good old Atlantic that refreshed us and then we headed back for a late dinner made up largely of purchases at Leclerc's.
WEDNESDAY 17 JUNE 09
Hot again today and sometimes bothered. Drove to our old haunt of La Palmyre and caught the tail-end of the market. Down to the Tourist Office to get some info, including market times, but it was closed for lunch (12.30 to 2.00).
Second objective was to visit and climb the nearby Phare de la Coubre. That too was closed, both for lunch and more importantly repairs.
Mornac, one of the most beautiful villages in France, was next on the agenda. It is quite pretty but most of the artisans’ shops, which apparently keep the village alive, were closed. We enjoyed an ice cream in the shade and walked down to the port. But there was little activity. On a previous visit, kids were diving in to keep cool. No such luck on this occasion so we headed back for a dip in the pool and a check on possible venues for this evening’s dinner. Tough going!
Meursac is a nearby village and the place where La Table is to be found. It is behind the church, close to the community centre (hall, swimming pool, tennis courts).
It is a gem, run by Julie and Julien Massonaud. Service is courteous and with a smile and a little English and the food is top-notch and you can eat indoors or out. After a couple of small free appetisers and a campari (not free), I made a spectacular start with nests (and they looked the real thing) filled with goats cheese and tomato along with a green salad. The advisor had a Mushroom Terrine, with toasted walnut bread, olives and gherkins.
We each had the same main course, Volaille (in rough puff pastry case) with thinly sliced mushrooms in a prawn (yes, believe it or not) sauce. Absolutely gorgeous, the fish and poultry and mushrooms also coming together for a fabulous main dish.
Desserts too were excellent. One was an apple pastry combination served with ice cream while I had the chef’s surprise: chocolate and caramel layers on a biscuit base with a lemon ice cream and a mango coulis. Lovely stuff.
The three course meal came with a price tag of €19.00 a head. The wine, a Bordeaux blanc, cost €18.00 and we finished off with two good coffees at 1.30 each, every bit as good but a lot less expensive than you’d pay in Jacques.

By the way, when you see chevre on a French menu, it invariably means goats cheese not goat meat.
THURSDAY 18 JUNE 09
History is on the menu today, in particular the history of the nearby medieval city of Pons. We were returning there mainly to see the Hospital of the Pilgrims, open from 2.30 on Thursdays.
The pilgrims were (and are – we saw one) those on their way to Santiago de Compostella. Geoffrey, Lords of Pons, ordered its construction and it was built between 1380 and 1385. Alongside is its famous Jardin Medicinal, growing plants (many herbs) which helped treat many of the ill pilgrims.
We had reached the impressive hospital by car but had already walked the walk, starting in the Place de Republique where the castle keep, Le Donjon, stands, serving now as a tourist office and exhibition centre.
With map in hand we followed the walk down the giant staircase, through the Passage sous les murs and other medieval passageways. In the Rue de Robinet, we saw some medieval gabled houses. One had kept a sundial dating from the 13th or 14th century and a couple of feet away sported a 21st century satellite dish!
Back then in the heat to the gite and another turn in the pool before starting up the barbecue again, the morning having started with a long walk to the baker in Pisany for a baguette.

FRIDAY 19 JUNE 09
No history today, though the meal we had at La Foret was historic in its own way, marrying French flair with the Irish love of large portions.
Royan is popular with the Irish, among others, and the Michelin recommended La Foret is not too far out on the east, on the road to Talmont. It is easy to find.
Started, aside from a few small appetisers, with a massive Goats Cheese and Tomato plateful, containing several slices of a tart that had the cheese and tomato, several rings of another cheese at the four corners of the plate, various bits of fruit and crudités and topped with a “sail”, made up of two rashers on two skewers.
The other starter was also huge, a Carpaccio of various fruits: several slices each of melon, grapefruit, watermelon, pineapple, and grapes, along with a plentiful supply of sorbet. The centre point here was a glass of the local Pineau which you couldn’t really free until you ate most of the fruit.
Main course was Bauvette, an excellent beef dish with parsley butter and caramelised onion, served with a few chips. Quite an amount of meat filled the long dish but there was bowl of salad on the side and also more chips. Massive and it went down well.

Then came the cheese course. I forget the first one on offer as we each went for the second which was a white cheese with cream and cognac. Beat that!
Then on to the desserts, all this remember in the €26.00 euro menu. Picked the classic Ile Flottante – melt in the mouth decadence. The other dessert at the table was a Terraro: a sorbet type combination of very fruity boules of frozen fruit (including blackcurrant, strawberry etc) all surrounded by sliced strawberries.
It was an unbelievable meal at quite a busy restaurant and the price of house wine (red, white or rose) was, believe it or not, €6.00 for a 70 cl carafe.
There are a couple of set menus but the a la carte is huge, opens out like a broadsheet. There is no English version so you could struggle to get though it unless you have very good French. But take a chance. It is worth it!
The cooking, the presentation, the service, the location of La Foret and its ambiance is excellent. But be warned about those huge portions!
Earlier in the day we had visited the long and impressive beach at St Georges and also the nearby Parc d’Estuaire where you get some excellent views but little else (though it could be quite an entertaining spot to take the kids).

SATURDAY 20 JUNE 2009
Despite the large meal last night, our Saturday begins with a food raid on Royan. First to the Marche where we pick up some pork pieces and beef brochettes for barbecues, also other necessary veg and greens, plus some prepared Tomato a la Greek for lunch.
Than down to our favourite traiteur in the area, Guy Laurent. Here we bought a prepared meal €7.73 for two and two sets of tartes (Clafoutis and Apple) for €6.30. Then, with two bags full and a loaf under the arm, back to the car and then to the gite.

The Greek style tomato fits the bill for lunch and after that we head to St Georges de Didonne, paddle in the sea, walk along beach and enter the town where we stroll to the centre and the pleasant square, noting the restaurants (the search for food never stops) and so on. Back then to the beach area where we see a bonfire ready for St John’s Night and watch some beach football.
For dinner at the Gite, we have the traiteur’s Turkey in Tomato sauce, having started with some smoked salmon. Dessert is a gorgeous apple tart each from the traiteur and all that, along with the free bottle of Rose from Madame Masse, makes for a cheap but lovely meal.

CHARENTE FRANCE 2009 Part 1

2009-06-15T09:45:00.008+01:00

Paradise in Hennessys

Le Flora (6/6/09)
Storm forecasts notwithstanding, the Advisor booked a window table at Le Flora restaurant. That, by the way, is the top restaurant on the Brittany Ferries ship Pont Aven.
The gales never came on the Ringaskiddy – Roscof trip (14 hours) but the promise of a top notch meal was delivered on the high seas.
Starter was Shredded Crab, wrapped in Avocado puree and accompanied by a green bean mix and salad. Terrific!
Main course was pork – Pluma Pata Negra: pork steak, probably underdone by Irish standards but, accompanied by a potato cake (understated description) and a simple crispy lettuce, it was absolutely gorgeous.
Dessert for me was a Crumble Pommes, beautifully done with a few big black berries and a little swallow of fiery Calvados to wash it down. Loved it and also loved the other dessert at our table which was a Soufflé Grand Mariner with a little glass of the famous liquid to accompany it.
By the way, between the mains and desserts, we had the pleasure of picking three cheeses each from the cheese board. Can’t remember them all but the Tombe and the Livarot were the highlights for me.
After the sweets, the coffees were accompanied by a mini Cornetto.
There is a big range of wines available at low to high prices. Felt good so settled for a special offer, a Chateau Haut Surget from the Bordeaux region that cost about 24 euro. No regrets as it was a top notch wine.
Annoyingly, considering that most of the countries are now in the Euro, Brittany Ferries still favour the use of the UK pound on board, though in many cases both currencies are noted.
The total bill for this high quality meal, including a litre bottle of unexciting Vittal water, came to £76.90 or €90.45.

L’ESCAPADE (Royan) 7/6/09
In Royan (or more accurately its joined on neighbour St Georges de Didonne) on Sunday night, we struck it lucky. Many establishments were closed, having done great business earlier for Mother’s Day lunches.
L’Escapade though was open and we were among their first evening customers. Having eaten various bits and pieces on the 600km journey down, we didn’t need a whole pile so when we spied Moules Frites on the menu, we went for it.
We didn’t spot the word gross, the one they really meant. We got at least kilo of mussels each, all in a beautiful cream and onion sauce and a basket full of chips each.
We got stuck in and the shells piled up. Kept going until the very end and then used a spoon to sample further the wonderful cream and onion sauce and, despite the highish €16 tag for a half bottle of Entre Deux Mer Sauvignon blanc, promised to come back soon.

SAINTES Mon 08.06.09
Monday was DIY day. On a grey sometimes wet morning, we drove to Saintes. Ended up in a traiteur in the centre and got some Lapin Chasseur (hunter’s rabbit). Visited a huge Le Clerc’s on the way back to stock up with some basics.
Lunch was tomatoes, tombe and lettuce, with baguettes of course, thrown together quickly by ourselves and soon polished off.
Afternoon was spent at the delightful village of Talmont (sur Gironde). Enough of its famous hollyhocks were in bloom to give a hint of what is to come in the next few weeks in this little village on the north bank of the Gironde estuary.
Back then through the cornfields and vineyards to our little gite in Thezac, in the middle of nowhere but close to everywhere. The tomatoes and lettuce were again employed, this time as a starter, after being embellished with some oils and seasoning. Then out came that bag from the traiteur. A quick run in the microwave and we were ready for business. The rabbit was top class and that included the generous portions of liver that made up the €11.00 package.
Dessert didn’t disappoint. It was a pear and almond tart, bought from the counter in Le Clercs.
The wine, a dry yet fruity local Saugivon blanc, was high class but cost less than €3.00 in Le Clercs.

Not a bad first day!

COGNAC 09/06/09
On the brandy trail today, following the footsteps of Richard Hennessy from Killavullen. First though we needed lunch on arrival in Cognac. Called to a small cafe near the Martell distillery. For €16.00, we got one plate, packed with shredded kebab meat plus chips and salad, one packed with Merguez sausages plus chips and salad, along with 2 waters. Quite a feed.

Then walked down to the banks of the Charente to pick up our reserved tickets for the Hennessey tour. Crossed the river by Hennessy boat to a storage area to begin tour and then back again to the main administration area, all the time accompanied by an English speaking guide.

Finished up in the shop (Boutique) of course for a tasting. The amount of tastes you had depended on how much you paid for your tour. The plebs got just the ordinary Hennessey available in Ireland but we paid €12 instead of €9 and got two tastings, the second a Fine de Cognac. The Fine was really much better and we ended up buying a bottle for about €38.00 – the ordinaire cost €30.00.

Interesting tour, though we felt that the one we made a few years back to Henri Martin was the better of the two. Being a Corkman, I’m letting the side down but at the Martin distillery, you get a tour on a little train and you also see the barrels being made on site.
Back then to the gite in Thezac, called to a local shop for a few bits and pieces (food of course) and went on a longish walk through the fields of vegetables, corn and vines.

Wednesday 10.06.09
Not the best of days weather-wise. Dry and sunny early on but turned really nasty as we headed for Ile d’Oleron. Didn’t get any better when we made the crossing (over France’s longest bridge). Stopped for a few minutes but, when we got out of the car in Chateau D’Oleron to watch the oyster farmers in action, it lashed again. Discretion was the better part of valour we decided and headed back to base.

Dried up for our afternoon visit to Chateau de la Roche Courbon, regarded as the site for the Sleeping Beauty story. The complete visit, which included a guided tour of the chateau, cost €9.00 a head. Very interesting building (with an interesting story). The formal gardens are worth seeing and there are also some varying exhibitions held there. Also, on the grounds, are some prehistoric caves (grottes). The visit takes about three hours.

THURSDAY 11.06.09
Warmest day so far. In the morning headed off to our old haunt of the Marche in Royan – I told you this trip was all about food. Stocked up on mussels for lunch, brochettes du beouf for dinner, a buchette of saumon fume as starter plus strawberries and cherries. On the way back, called to baker in Pisany for baguette plus a couple of pastries.
You can’t eat without drinking. First call of the afternoon was to the local vineyard of Masse where we met Madame who was born in the farm where we are staying! She gave us a generous tasting of Pineau, both white and red. We bought some and also some of her lovely whites (columbard) and reds (merlot), each at 2.60 a bottle and, at the end of the friendly transaction – where we managed to have a conversation even though she didn’t use a word of English – she threw in a bottle of rose for free!

Got lost in the vineyards and fields briefly on the way back but the afternoon was still young and we headed down to the historic town of Pons where we enjoyed a walk through the old buildings, now in use as tourist and council offices. Called to the tourist office in the donjon, got some info and maps and promised ourselves and the friendly receptionist that we would be back next week for a more prolonged visit.
Back then to the gite for our barbecue which went on for hours as did the sun which set about 10.00pm. So ended another lovely day in the Charente.

FRIDAY 12 JUNE 09
With the weather settled, headed off for Ile d’Oleron. Drove over the Pont-Viaduc, the longest bridge in France at 3026 metres and up through the island to its furthest point where the Phare de Chassiron stands. This black and white banded 224 step lighthouse gives fabulous views over the sea and the coast but was closed for lunch 12.30 to 2.00pm. We had a walk in the vicinity and, the day being fine and clear, saw all the sights, right up to a sailing ship passing the towers of La Rochelle.

We have weeks to spend here yet so headed down to Boyardville. It has a packed marina and an unpacked 5 mile beach. There were only a few dozen there and most of these were individuals and families picked among the muddy sand for various shell fish, rapidly filling their buckets and baskets.
The view, on a day like today, is absolutely fantastic, almost 360 degrees of blue sky. Then there are the stretches of pine trees onshore and out to sea, again you can see la Rochelle, Ile d’Aix, Ile de Re and, of course, Fort Boyard, a curious stone structure rising off shore, a fort built under Napoleon the 3rd but outdated militarily before its completion in 1859 and now a destination for boat trips.

Headed back then to the gite and the pool for a refreshing dip before settling on the nearby Le Cottage in Les Arces (pronounced to rhyme with a collection of bottoms) for dinner. The restaurant is run by an Irishman Doug and his French wife Axelle. We made the reservation and arrived at seven.

First course was a maigret du canard (smoked) salad for the advisor while I had an asparagus salad (spears, hardboiled egg, little cubes of grapefruit, toasted almonds slivers and leaves). Both were brilliant.

My main was duck with gratin dauphinois, puréed pea and other seasonal vegetables. The adviser had lamb with much the same veg but no gratin. Didn’t think that pureed pea could taste so well but it was gorgeous as were both dishes.

Dessert was also on a very high level. We both went for the oven baked lemon cheesecake, recommended by Axelle who has a terrific command of the English language. The cheesecake, served with a few strawberries, rounded off a fantastic meal.

We took the house wine and that worked out at just €7.00 for a couple of jugs that totalled 70cl. Total cost of the meal, including a cup of coffee, was exactly €63.00. Back then though the back roads, passing the cornfields and vineyards as dusk came down all around.

*By the way, Le Cottage also serves draught Guinness and jus de Guinness is mentioned in some of the dishes.

SATURDAY 13 June 09 THE HOT DAY
This was a hot day from start to 9.00pm finish, temperatures hitting at least 35 degrees.
It wasn’t that hot when I headed the 3.5k to Pisany for a baguette and four croissants (€4.00 the lot). Croissants were gorgeous.
The sun was well up and we decided that this was a day to avoid the crowds at the beaches and to spend it close to the pool. But first, provisions had to be acquired, also a new lens for the camera. Headed to Royan and quickly got the lens at what seemed a good price to replace one that had been broken.
Next up to the Marche for a few bits and pieces, including pork chops for Saturday’s barbecue, and then back down to one of our favourites French traiteurs, Aux Pieds de Cochon (Guy Laurent) facing on to the Place de Gaulle, the big open square just up from Front de Mer. Here we treated ourselves to Fricassee de Poulet, earmarked for Sunday's meal.
We returned then, flying through highways and byways thanks to Susie (our Sat Nav nag). Nice salad for lunch and then a few dips in the pool before the Barbie. Another very enjoyable easy going jour in Charente! Tough going but someone has to do it...

SUNDAY 14 JUN 09
We’re in Saintes for the market, walking up Rue Gambetta with small groups of locals and tourists. And then we’re in the thick of it. Two facing rows of stalls turn into another street and the space is crowded.

Like Royan, this is mainly a food market. We’re already well stocked but pick up a few bits and pieces, like some very tasty Saigon rolls (some with shellfish and veg, others with poultry and veg), some cod (not the salted morue) but the fresh cabillaud and a chunk of Munster cheese, the Munster a valley in Alsace.
We are parked near the Arc Germanicus. Take a few pics there and head back to the gite for luch. Decide to stay away from the crowded beaches and instead opt for a nearby Les Jardins de Collette.
Not a great move. We arrived in St Andre de Leon and found the way well signposted. We do not have to pay the advertised four euro fee and we soon see why: the gardens are in a poor state and have been neglected for quite a while.
But there are some fine plants there and the Atlantic Cactus Garden survives and thrives mainly because it is a commercial outlet for the Domain de Chaillaud. The shop sells a range of local products, mainly cognacs and pineaus. We had a tasting of both pineaus and went off happy with a bottle of blanc for less than nine euro.

QYPE

2009-04-29T10:46:00.000+01:00

QYPE: KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

Taking a trip soon? Dublin? London? Bordeaux? Anywhere in Europe?

Where to eat? What to do? Then QYPE’s for you – try it at http://www.qype.co.uk/ie021-dublin

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Cheap air fares means going to London is like taking the bus. Now that you’ve done all the regular tourist places why not do something different, like taking a thrilling RIB run on the Thames. Check it out at: http://www.qype.co.uk
France is one of the most popular destinations for Irish holidaymakers. Going there this summer? Where to eat in Bordeaux? Just type in the city you want and hey presto you got all the restaurants conveniently listed in the areas in the city, such as the Old Quarter.

Did it come up in French? No bother. QYPE is multi-lingual – just change to Anglais.
Going further? Vienna, Athens, Copenhagen..many more... are covered..restaurants and entertainments reviewed by the punters..check it out before you go or when you’re on the road...
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List of categories in QYPE

Categories
Eating & Drinking
Restaurants, Cafés & Coffee Shops, Pubs & Bars
Shopping
Food & Drink, Fashion, Home Shopping
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Inch Bay, County Cork

2009-03-18T12:56:00.002Z

See photos from Inch (taken Christmas Eve 2002) at: http://picasaweb.google.com/cork.billy/Inch2002?feat=directlink

KILKENNY MARCH 09

2009-03-13T09:35:00.009Z

For eating out in Kilkenny go to: http://corkfood.blogspot.com

Woodstock Woodstock

Woodstock

The Tholsel

The Left Bank Bar

The Brewery

St Canice's Cathedral & Tower

Round Tower

Rothe House

Kilkenny Castle

Jerpoint Abbey

Inistioge

Graiguenamanagh

Highlight of trip was the Gallery in the Castle but photography was not allowed. Don't miss it if you go to Kilkenny!

For eating out in Kilkenny go to: http://corkfood.blogspot.com

BANTRY SEP 08

2008-09-26T08:58:00.009+01:00

Mizen
Mizen
Mizen

Glengarriffe
Glengarriffe
Glengarriffe
Bantry Library

Bantry Harbour
Bantry Bay
Sheep's Head
Air India Memorial
Air India Memorial

Betelgeuse memorial
Betelgeuse memorial
Bantry Harbour
Bantry Harbour

Bantry

Bantry Harbour (Danish ship)
as above
as above
Bantry sculpture
Bantry Sculpture

Stayed at Maritime Hotel, visited Sheep's Head, Mizen and Glengarriffe.

Recommend: Cafes at Sheeps Head and Mizen Centre and The Brick Oven in Bantry, along with the Maritime.

AUSTRIA 2004

2008-07-09T10:19:00.001+01:00

Ring of Kerry, March 2008

2008-07-03T09:35:00.010+01:00

Torc Waterfall
The Reeks

Lakes of Killarney

Ross Castle

Kenmare sculpture

Kenmare

Cove (at Derrynane)

Coast on west of ring

Coast Road (west)

Charlie & me

Carragh Lake

Blackstone Bridge

Sneem (Co Kerry) & West Cork Apr 2008

2008-07-02T18:54:00.012+01:00

Castletownbere fishing port
One of Sneem's "pyramids" and Church

Sneem village, Co Kerry

Wood sculpture in Sneem

Crusher Casey, world heavyweight wrestling champ (Sneem)

Sneem memorial to Carroll O'Dalaigh, late Irish president

Sneem church

Sneem memorial

Sneem memorial to C de Gaulle

Healy Pass, between West Cork and Kerry